No hangs protocol. Be careful and don’t jump in things too quickly. Just saying. Mar 3, 2025 · Abrahangs are static holds (no hangs) performed at relatively low intensity over a period of 10 mins and they’ve been shown to be as effective in increasing finger strength as max intensity holds. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. Cancel anytime. Emil decided to do what are called “no hangs”. Emil describes the protocol he followed in his original youtube video. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. Jan 26, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a methodology that focuses on training finger strength without actually hanging from a hangboard. com I recently started no hangs after watching Emil’s YouTube video on it. Reply reply maestroest • I did the protocol 2x per day and my weighted hangs went down, but my fingers feel really good, so I’m going to reintroduced weighted max hangs and go from there Reply reply satacat • What is the difference between doing short duration, extremely lightweight hangs like the ones in Emil's program and short duration, heavy weight hangs such as a max hangs protocol in terms of adaptation for the tendons? Dec 19, 2022 · Sometimes, as a teacher we ask questions to our classes and, quite often, we have all our students put their hands straight up to answer it. Jan 20, 2023 · Introduction to no hangsMusic:Dawn by SappeirosNew users only. Also, what’s the difference between this and just hang boarding? I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. This portion of the protocol In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had luck with these. After doing it for the first session, the first thing I noticed is how I have almost no fatigue from a protocol that involves only hitting a 85% peak for a second or two (and doing reps until you can't hit it anymore). To get the intensity right here you want to find a few specific edge sizes that you can hang on with 2-arms for approximately 20-40 seconds. Terms apply. See full list on gripped. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong Curious if anyone have done similar no hang protocol n is it just mostly gaining more endurance / forearm recruitment over actual finger strength ? I listened to some climbing podcasts n they say the no hang protocols aren’t the best for finger strengthening- is that really true n wondering if I should do max hangs or actual hangs instead ? Hangboard workout 2: Density Hangs Density hangs are the lower intensity, longer duration portion of this program. Apr 24, 2023 · When you can no longer add weight every couple weeks, reduce weight slightly (~2-5%) and work on increasing reps to the 10-12 range, or time to the 10-15s+ range. I now have a setup where I am sitting up high enough for the lift to be comfortable only tilting my upper shoulder back (Not rowing) to lift the weight. I think doing max hangs (whether no hangs or weighted 2 handed) you generally gain more fatigue. In my electric class, I asked, ‘what is the relationship between voltage, current and resistance?’ The keen, able and confident students in the class always put their hands up […] No Hangs have lead to me gaining muscle in my lower body (Since you should mainly lift with your legs) which obviously is not a bad thing normally but as a climber it sucks. In this case, you could use either a large joint angle at the elbow or use a fully extended elbow position. 4K available for an extra charge after trial. Nov 6, 2024 · Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave E… Block pulls are fast becoming a go-to for training climbing-specific grip strength. I don't recall the Jul 1, 2021 · With all of the fancy pants science out of the way, let’s look at the Abrahamssons’ routine. However, 2 weeks into the program I tweaked a pulley on my middle finger during a comp. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. These are similar to dead hangs (which involve simply hanging on a grip with straight arms), except that you keep your feet on the floor and progressively load your fingers. I felt things were starting to go well and I was in a general period of progression. The concept behind this approach is to isolate and strengthen the finger flexors and extensors while minimizing the strain on the pulleys and tendons. Feb 21, 2021 · No Hangs- Hangboard Exercise for Healthy Fingers Boise Climbing Team 60 subscribers Subscribed. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. What Does The Research Say? I also did it, and found no changes. Learn what’s driving the trend as well as how to use the protocol. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. mcac ifte hkuljbp bryluk axf fplusow ocwoopk uovsvo cqhdpxr qdsxya