Hangboarding for hypertrophy. Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home.

Hangboarding for hypertrophy. 12 or crush V7, hangboarding can help you take your grip strength to the next level. Apr 21, 2020 · You can train hypertrophy by doing lower intensity work for a longer period of time, which is exactly what density hangs do. 13. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. Feb 1, 2021 · So at the moment i do 3 Hangboard sessions per week. These protocols often break down into variations of two-arm minimum-edge hangs, weighted hangs, and one arm hangs. Learn the basics of how to start hangboarding. For basic inst… Hangboard hypertrophy is mostly limited to repeaters (?) but 7/3 and 5/5 were both chosen because they mimic climbing durations (?). Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). See full list on climbing. While hypertrophy has a significant genetic component, size gain is inevitable for most climbers thanks to the sheer volume of loading that we put our forearms through—and it comes with a significant trade-off for climbers. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? Tendons don't really stretch much and actually get stiffer with training for more force production. But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. When done correctly, it can significantly enhance climbing performance. by Olivier · Published 9 August 2023 · Updated 30 June 2023 In climbing, the most common tools for developing finger strength or endurance (referred to as “grip” by Ninja Warrior enthusiasts) are the fingerboard, Güllich board, or Kilterboards. So to clarify it even more; if you keep on hangboarding for a long period of time and avoid accommodation by varying the stimulus you will keep progressing by way of (mainly) neural adaptations. T. It might make sense to include some heavy finger rolls (which you can do with dumbbells if you have heavy enough weight) to induce hypertrophy in these muscles. Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. There I explained why I chose that name over Repeaters and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first of my studies that compared this method to others, focusing on their effect on finger strength and endurance. In total, 35 intermediate- to advanced-level climbers (8 women and 27 In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. Tendon density increases when there are stronger chemical bonds between your tendon fibers. Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. there seems to be a few theories around right now: hang 10 seconds, rest 5s, X8-10 reps, 2 minute break hang 8-12 seconds, rest 1 min, 4 reps, 5 minute break pyramid building with the first (i. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. Oct 7, 2013 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? Aug 17, 2012 · A year or so ago, shortly after a post concerning hypertrophy, I received a nicely written blunt message from my friend Ryan Palo. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. . Current programming: change the reps and sets from 3-6 reps in strength, 1-3 sets for STRENGTH and 8-12 reps, 3-5 sets for HYPERTROPHY. I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. But the volume argument of repeaters stimulating more hypertrophy and less neural adaptations is always in the room. " I Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. Should they decided on hangboarding, they then have to choose their protocol. Advantages of Hangboarding Specificity: Hangboards allow for targeted Apr 24, 2020 · Hangboarding is one of those training tools that is extremely effective, but it is tricky to get right in terms of intensity, frequency, and balance with other forms of training and climbing. com Apr 21, 2020 · You can train hypertrophy by doing lower intensity work for a longer period of time, which is exactly what density hangs do. 4-6-8-10-8-6-4) hang 5 seconds, rest 10 seconds, 2 min break after 'can't Aug 30, 2012 · I’m a strong proponent of hangboarding for increasing finger strength for rock climbing. Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs long-duration isometrics can help you improve the quality of your tendons and climbing! I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. a lot. On one side I read people saying "go 100% and go until failure" or that the training should always Jan 1, 2021 · Before choosing a training methodology and periodization for hangboarding some individual characteristics need to be judged, like training experience, age, past injuries, ma I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. Everybody knows this. The Hangboard Workout guide prioritizes form, efficiency, and injury prevention. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to others, especially if you've been doing one kind to maybe consider switching things up. Hi all. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong Nov 19, 2024 · Background Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. No real risk of injury because your feet are always planted. Yea, I'm talking about switching between endurance, hypertrophy, strength, and power. Strength = neurological adaptations X hypertrophy (muscle cross sectional area) Both neurological adaptation and hypertrophy can both be developed to a high degree. , like bouldering (if you're a route climber), like many other tools, rather than squeezing a grip. My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. While performing hangs, it’s crucial to maintain proper form to prevent injuries elsewhere: Keep your shoulders relaxed and away from your ears, engage your shoulder blades, and slightly bend your elbows. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. Why are you hangboarding after bouldering? Hangboarding should be the main focus, with bouldering second. Research studies have documented what thousands of recreational and pro climbers have discovered at home—hangboard training works! Three brief training sessions per week, for four weeks, will yield a noticeable increase in finger strength, especially in those new to hangboard training. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. Before discussing how to hang-board, it is important to have a basic understanding of the anatomy of the fingers, hands, and forearms. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. Hangboarding, repeaters, training cycles, 4x4s, Campus Board Training It’s possible to drown in the detail but the #1 take home message is this: it is Sep 12, 2023 · Intensity: Hangboarding is intended to improve a climber’s strength by stimulating positive adaptations in neural, muscular, and connective tissues. You're much better doing other supplemental work, like hangboarding, like campus boarding, like various core exercises, like ring work, like H. Neural adaptation occurs early in a new training program and is primarily responsible for any short-term improvements seen. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. Aug 9, 2023 · Finger Strength : No-Hanging vs Hangboarding. Nov 21, 2022 · In Part 1 of this article, we outlined the most important building blocks of a structured hangboard session, talking about everything from hold size and grip type selection to why increasing training load is not just about increasing the ‘intensity’ of your sessions. May 7, 2024 · A different ROM and position would likely alleviate that. This tool allows for a focused workout on finger grip strength, offering several advantages over other exercises. In 2019, we now know more about how different training methods (protocols) work for different types of climbers than ever before. Once again, climbers are faced with a choice: bouldering, board climbing or hangboarding. 13 which at the time felt like the absolute limit of my… Mar 17, 2025 · Hypertrophy training: The Complete Guide (plus workouts) Hypertrophy development is valuable as increased muscle mass is beneficial to athletic performance and a necessity for many sports. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. What is the proper arm, shoulder, and torso positioning for safe and effective hangboarding? No matter the fingerboard protocol you choose, it’s essential to train with good technique! Maintain muscular tension throughout your shoulders and upper torso by engaging your scapular stabilizers and rotator cuff—think "shoulders down, chest out". Instead of just few days off, lay off for a week or more and then start again from a lower weight. My point is that if you are just doing max hangs for recruitment, then moving on to campusing after, it may be that you are having 2 phases of recruitment then (hangboarding and campusing) which would be less effective then hypertrophy then recruitment (repeaters then campusing). Focusing primarily on beginner hangboard workout strategies, you'll find tailored advice for Metolius hangboard workout techniques and Beastmaker hangboard workout insights. 12<) without hangboarding. I’ve tried many different methods, and IME, hangboarding is the most effective. However, hangboarding is also one of the riskiest forms of training when it comes to finger injuries, especially tendon and pulley strains. Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. If you are able to climb enough to get enough volume on your hands, max hangs are hands down the best exercise if you can keep progressing through plateaus. When a climber uses a hang-board, the type of grip that they choose will influence the specific structures (muscles, tendons, and ligaments) that are loaded. A collection of workouts created by Will R. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of 10 weeks of hangboard training (HBT) on climbing-specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and muscular endurance. Why do I recommend this? It's a great way to start hangboarding for a beginner - no pulleys, weights, or super complicated schemes. Details may vary depending on training age. in Workout Trainer for the iPad, iPhone, and Android. If i can start climbing again i would reduce the hangboard sessions to 1 or 2 per week i think. e. I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. With hangboard repeaters, you perform a series of hangs, each separated by a very short rest. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. And what does your skin think about it? Stop being a jackass. ). It is worth noting I will be hangboarding twice a week during this time. Background: I've been climbing twice a week since 2019 - now around v4-v6 (overhang v slab) indoors. Jan 11, 2024 · They’re simple, they’re quick and efficient to perform, and you can do them from the comfort of home—assuming you have a hangboard or edge to use. The physiological explanation for this rise in grip endurance, or more specifically in the ability to maintain a high level of strength in the IntHangs group, can reside in: enhanced glycogen and phosphagen storage (Bertuzzi et al. To train safely and effectively, it’s crucial to understand Jun 10, 2020 · Everyone can learn how to start hangboarding. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. The truth is, if you want strong, healthy fingers that stay strong and healthy, that isn’t going to happen if you follow a random hangboard protocol that lasts X weeks long and then stop doing Jul 5, 2018 · The decision must take into account if we want to promote intensity (using smaller/more challenging holds -in case you are training sloper strength or heavier weights), adjusting volume and pauses in order to sustain the high load along the workout, seeking hypertrophy and high-intensity endurance; or instead we might focus on volume, which Oct 5, 2021 · Most any training plan geared to more difficult moves requires a degree of finger-strength consideration. Hangboards are everywhere in rock climbing and bouldering gyms. I’m not a sports scientist but where in any other hypertrophy protocol for any other muscle is a 20 second isometric hold used to stimulate hypertrophy? Or does it make more sense that the forearms, like any other muscle, are going to respond to a hypertrophy protocol that looks more like 8-12 reps at 60-80% of max effort per rep. These aren't Ryan's exact words, but it basically said, "Hey, idiot. However this prolonged training stimulus will inevitably produce some hypertrophy which will further increase your neural gains over time. May 23, 2024 · Hangboarding serves as an excellent method for improving finger strength. So at the moment i do 3 Hangboard sessions per week. Interestingly, both high resistance (with few repetitions) and low resistance (with high repetitions) training did improve climbers’ strength in a 10-week training program by Hermans et al. Jan 11, 2024 · They’re simple, they’re quick and efficient to perform, and you can do them from the comfort of home—assuming you have a hangboard or edge to use. It seems like that method is common when people discuss hypertrophy, but after some research there seems to be a mixed opinion on it. May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. It is the training tool you will use the most. This particular work was presented at the III International Rock Congress set up by the IRCRA that took What's an example of a simple hang board routine (< 10-15 mins, supports progressive difficulty, no periodisation) that is a good warm-up before climbing? Everything I try ends up being too hard or too easy (i. Hangboarding is a popular training method among climbers looking to build finger strength, improve grip endurance, and enhance overall climbing performance. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. I actually think hangboarding is safer than just climbing even for new climbers because the loads are very controlled unlike real climbing. diff being you can start with less than bw. Apr 12, 2022 · The increases are probably not due to hypertrophy in the forearms (Shimose et al. This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). The authors seem a little Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. Someone like myself, who is naturally a noodle, might also benefit from some forearm hypertrophy too and I don't think just doing repeaters would be quite as effective as finger curls. Hey, i was just browsing around the internet the other day and saw a few theories on how the rep/rest/hang ratios all work. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • For tendon density or muscle hypertrophy, consider extending the time under tension to 80 to 150 seconds per set and incorporating longer holds to reduce intensity. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. Yves gravelle has luck with it. Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. Then for optimal hypertrophy I would even think about adding a 40 % repeater session aiming for 6 sets of 12x7/3 with 2 min break. For beginners, starting a hangboarding routine can be intimidating due to the complexity of the holds and the risk of injury if done incorrectly. Just pull hard on edges and gain some strength and comfort before tackling a more demanding program. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength Jul 23, 2014 · Since you're into the rock prodigy method, check out the Anderson Bros newer information. Mar 14, 2018 · The previous entry was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. Strength = neurological adaptations * muscle cross sectional area (hypertrophy) Hypertrophy is predicated on: Maximal tension Muscle damage Metabolic stress My thoughts before starting were that since the strength equation is basically neurological adaptations * muscle cross So to clarify it even more; if you keep on hangboarding for a long period of time and avoid accommodation by varying the stimulus you will keep progressing by way of (mainly) neural adaptations. Thats totally fine because (if we follow generic sports science hypertrophy will bring more long term gains). That said real climb is better if it is an option for you if you can get access because climbing is such a skill sport and some relatively weak people can climb some of the highest grades with incredible Mar 25, 2013 · frankstoneline wrote: maximum force for 10 seconds for hypertrophy type training (either small edges or large weights or some combination)with lots of rest between reps , and generally repeater type workouts seem to fall more in the recruitment camp (higher reps, lower forces) This is backwards. This article will guide you through what a beginner’s hangboarding routine typically May 23, 2018 · Your hangboarding workout in this context requires the optimal combination of mechanical tension and metabolic stress (Schoenfeld, 2016), so I recommend pauses between sets longer than 1 minute to maintain the intensity (edge size or added weight) reasonably stable throughout the session. Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. , 2011; España-Romero and Watts, 2012) but to neural adaptation processes during the first weeks of training (López-Rivera and González-Badillo, 2012), allowing a better capacity to recruit motor units on a given movement and/or an increased discharge rate of Nov 9, 2022 · Comments — Fingers: Multiple caveats: Repeaters allow enough volume hangboarding to elicit a hypertrophy adaptation by themselves. They're usually used to improve grip strength or finger strength, but what does the science s Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. 4 to 6 weeks is the golden zone and a lot of the literature supports that, but up to 8 weeks is okay for hypertrophy imo. Feb 19, 2024 · Finger Strength Exercises Hangboarding For targeted finger strength gains, there's no substitute for the hangboard. In terms of programming I'm doing them at the end of my hangboarding Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Sep 26, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. When I first started hangboarding, I had just sent my first 5. It’s essential to monitor your symptoms and adapt your program accordingly, avoiding overloading the affected area. The strong effects on combined muscle activation indicate a preferential muscular hypertrophy in small flexors, especially in combination. These bonds grow when you hang for long periods of time—at least 30 seconds. Apr 7, 2024 · Tired of Max-Hangs and Repeaters fingerboard drills? Revamp your finger strength training with the novel Arm-Lifting protocols! Jul 25, 2024 · Hypertrophy / increased muscle size. Mar 16, 2019 · When it comes to finger strength in climbing training, the science is getting more and more consolidated. Discover our hangboard, meticulously designed to meet the needs of climbers at every level. Nay. outsideonline. I've done many 6/10 cycles and my forearms don't seem to measure any larger from those at least. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Jun 28, 2013 · After completing several hypertrophy hangboard phases and in the midst of one currently, I am wondering if "finishing each set to failure" is actually effective. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. , 2007); increased maximum strength, probably via hypertrophy as a result of the use of submaximal loads and If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. This program focuses mostly on ligaments and tendons but there are likely other downstream effects. Mar 1, 2022 · Hangboarding puts a lot of stress on small muscles and tendons—that’s the point—and this requires that you listen to your body as you progress through the workouts. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. Jun 4, 2025 · New to hangboarding? Learn when to start, how to train, and what mistakes to avoid in this beginner-friendly guide to finger strength training. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. I boulder for 5 to 10 Apr 9, 2018 · My thoughts before starting Eric Horst’s article with them suggested that these helped with increases in hypertrophy. Jul 5, 2018 · climbinb, training, hangboard, fingerboard, hangboarding, finger strength, climbing coach, evidence-based, science-based, education, athletic training It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. Jun 29, 2021 · The strong effects on combined muscle activation indicate a preferential muscular hypertrophy in small flexors, especially in combination. Aug 24, 2023 · Master the ultimate hangboard workout with our detailed guide. Hangboard training 101 Whether you’re trying to send your first 5. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. The last paragraph was very interesting. From personal experience, I think you're right about max hangs being enough stimulus fir hypertrophy. Started adding in some minimal hang boarding, prior to First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small devices if you think there's a better way to train pinch strength and experience gains. You might not be resting enough for Feb 28, 2022 · Learn how Dr. If your fingers or elbows become sore, take a week off, reevaluate your deadhang form, and ease back into your next training session. Jan 4, 2021 · I'm sure hypertrophy does occur using max hangs, but do repeaters give better hypertrophy? For other training, if you want to bulk up, isn't moderate load/higher reps better than max load/low reps? Sure I've seen training vids giving this advice. Goldilocks problem). Adding this routine on top of your existing climbing is a reasonable increase in training volume, as Jul 6, 2023 · I’ve heard many people talk about various ways to get strong fingers: a finger strength training phase, an 8-week hangboard cycle, following some person on the internet’s training routine, etc. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. Each Hangboarding is a popular training technique among climbers aiming to build finger strength and improve grip endurance. Isometrics aren't the greatest for hypertrophy anyway (?), but if you throw out that climbing specificity and try for size, the programs here for instance give you some interesting hang times. I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. I. If you can’t finish a set, end the workout. Grips to promote hypertrophy will not do that, nor will they help with power, or power endurance. Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. Hangboarding Faq - How Do I Progress on the Hangboard? If you're stuck for three weeks at the same weight for any grip type, it's time to take a break from the hangboard. igi wwdjt ausvu hpni qvgt mqorva fftsaqme lzsw jahjom ujjl