Best hangboarding for hypertrophy reddit. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I see a lot of people, both here and in real life, looking to start hangboarding but feeling too… Thoughts on my upper day for hypertrophy? submitted 1 hour ago by anihalatologist Running a 4 day upper/lower, bodyweight for compounds and weights for isolation. That seems like a useful form of training because it seems like a solid stretch and the stretch seems to be a very potent stimulus for growth My forearm is a bit of a priority. I'm a 17y/o girl on a comp team, I've been climbing for five years, low-end 5. With no training history on hangboarding - I would start with repeaters. So repeaters with added weight and max hangs are going to do it anyway. This develops fitness while developing climbing skills, and most people find it more fun than hangboarding (aka the purpose of climbing). Small crimps better with max hang timings (one set: 7-10 sec on / 2-5 minutes rest) by not adding weight but reducing the edge size. and thats not even including things that arent finger related which is a myriad of things which can bump you up several grades. Jan 9, 2025 · I know most of the advice for beginner level climbers is to "climb more" rather than hangboard, but with our current living situation, is there any way to train at home during the week other than hangboarding? Dec 6, 2022 · I’ve started going back over some old posts on reddit and re-analyzing them from a stronger climbing perspective including the recently updated 7. I'm leaning toward plate pinches and heavy finger rolls but am open to other ideas and happy to buy any small devices if you think there's a better way to train pinch strength and experience gains. Isometrics aren't the greatest for hypertrophy anyway (?), but if you throw out that climbing specificity and try for size, the programs here for instance give you some interesting hang times. ). The 5 main methods to achieve maximal hypertrophy - some of these I don't quite get. I wanted to start/continue a discussion about the costs/benefits of these types of hangboarding. I plan to start an entry level hangboard routine, and as a beginning my plan is to start with 2 sessions a week. Let's say I know my weak link in my climbing is my finger strength. The authors seem a little Apr 9, 2018 · My thoughts before starting Eric Horst’s article with them suggested that these helped with increases in hypertrophy. How much this applies to the wall is a different story altogether though. Assuming you are using Anderson Brothers' training protocol, by the time you are done (warm up + hangboard), you should be sufficiently tired that compound lifts are probably not the best exercises to follow, especially if you are looking for max strength gain. Aug 22, 2022 · If you’re new to climbing, the best way to improve is simply to climb. To medical professionals the results of following a "Training for hypertrophy" routine is called "Sarcoplasmic, muscle, hypertrophy. This is a slow process (happening over the course of years), so hypertrophic gains shouldn't come after 2 weeks. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Max weight workouts, in general, are highly recommended on this subreddit. 5 or 5. Hypertrophy does have a lot of overlap with strength, and plateaus in strength gains usually call for a hypertrophy phase in training, so I think it's something worth keeping in mind. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). If you’re stronger, hangboarding on a climbing day, before climbing, is fine. Beginners ususally experience rapid improvement just by climbing. If you want to stimulate climbing muscles and get stronger, figure out some other training to do so you aren't overloading on the tendons. Overall I would say it's about quality and not quantity. Chalk while hangboarding? Is there any benefit to chalking up while hangboarding if I'm just trying to build finger strength? I compete in ninja warrior and some competitions don't allow chalk so I'm considering cutting it out of hangboarding sessions to mimic competition settings. May 15, 2023 · Two years ago this crazy new finger training method took the climbing community by storm, with Emil and Felix Abrahamsson reporting incredible improvements in finger strength by hangboarding two times per day for 30 days. You might feel a lot stronger but you still need to prioritize your health. A general rule of thumb seems to be climbing V5/6 consistently before hangboarding. 4-6-8-10-8-6-4) hang 5 seconds, rest 10 seconds, 2 min break after 'can't Hangboarding is good because it definitely stresses your wrist in a light, controllable way so that it can get used to the feel of climbing. But generally speaking, yes, the full crimp is really bad for you if you aren't conditioned for it. ) Rows and face pulls compliment the pull up. Sure a few studies and methods that have been used with success, but it’s a combo of sport specificity, ligament, tendon, muscular, and neural adaptations. Something I can easily log each set/reps and preferably something that auto regulates when to + the weight based on what I log. Here is an example of a high-volume split used by some juiced redditor to get big. I usually climb for a few hours then do a bodyweight workout with rings. Objectively my pyramid has filled out and I hit a new max grade. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best calnick0 • It's safer to hangboard with the full crimp than to habitually climb with it, simply because hangboarding is much more controlled. One way to program is to go relatively high rep and perform them after a hangboard routine. The argument is more "hangboarding is unnecessary (and occasionally detrimental) to new climbers because all the positive adaptations of hangboarding can be induced by thoughtfully organizing a climbing routine on the wall". General strength training is nice because it makes you feel like you're doing something, but it has very little benefit for hangs or for climbing. I ended up getting a set of crimps from 10-5mm and also made some bigger edges up to 20mm out of some hardwood I had on hand. May 15, 2023 · Hangboarding involves an isometric contraction of all sorts of muscles, most notably the finger flexor muscles in our forearms. If you had to narrow on two supplemental excercises to create gains in the forearms what would they be. I've used this protocol for literally everything. If you’re looking for structural adaptations in the form of muscle growth you probably want more volume than 7/53 protocol. Repeaters and max hang analysis for strength and hypertrophy (ft. I find that despite my interest in training a wide variety of athletic qualities, hypertrophy training is always something I circle back to with enthusiasm. Ok, I finally got The Rock Climber's Training Manual and read through most of it. When would I incorporate campus and hangboarding into my routine. Good question would be though: do you need hangboarding? Is fingerstrength a weakness currently? Whats the best routine youve ran to build size? Ive ran 531 BBB and BtM, ive done nsuns, and upper lower. It's really just a means to further train strength. For people who are newer to hangboarding, would it be better to do max hangs or repeaters starting off? EDIT: Sorry. Mini-Daily – light weight, decent reps, medium rest between reps, 10 minute stimulus (example: 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off, 10 times, 20% of max weight) – do twice daily (at least 6 hours rest between). First, hangboarding doesn’t have much knowledge around it. I'm preparing for a bouldering trip and just started a hangboarding phase. Im having trouble finding a solid routine to run to build size primarily. 6/6 or 7/13 repeaters with 6-10 reps per set at 60-80% MVC would put you in a good zone for triggering hypertrophy. That said, I agree that hypertrophy should not be the goal. I continued to improve for a long time using the linear approach, just increasing the loads. Since all his metrics were max strength it would be interesting to have a pro powerlifter try light squatting every day and see what happens as a comparison. The single most important factor to increase hypertrophy is progressive overload, which refers to increasing the amounts of stress placed upon the body over time. If you're interested in the physiological mechanisms of strength and hypertrophy, I cover them in depth in Part 2 of the OGO series. The strength phase is actually doing those main exercises. Strength = neurological adaptations * muscle cross sectional area (hypertrophy) Hypertrophy is predicated on: Maximal tension Muscle damage Metabolic stress My thoughts before starting were that since the strength equation is basically neurological adaptations * muscle cross The “hypertrophy range” of roughly 6-15 reps per set may produce slightly better results per unit of time invested than low rep and high rep work. To make story short, I'm not progressing. This is best for muscle hypertrophy and the energy/recovery systems. 12, and regardless of what your local gym-rat crusher proclaims. I added accessory to arms never saw growth. (Regular push ups are too easy, and I’ve seen people not do them. Climbers kinda need strong fingers. Holy grail of hangboarding Guys, I think I found it! I was just going on with my routine doing the No-hangs protocol from Emil Abrahamson's recent video. Im more focused on bodybuilding. outsideonline. r/naturalbodybuilding Current search is within r/naturalbodybuilding Remove r/naturalbodybuilding filter and expand search to all of Reddit Hypertrophy, the golden goose. The average natural men can expect, assuming they do most things right, to gain between 40-50 pounds of muscle mass in his training journey. So for about 3 months I've hanged twice a week, one repeaters session and one max hangs. After doing finger curls with my forearm vertical for a while, I recently did a cycle of horizontal finger curl and felt like this improved my sloper and pinching strength a lot so I figured this could be interesting or useful to others, especially if you've been doing one kind to maybe consider switching things up. Nov 21, 2022 · For each of these, we discuss why they’ll work well for some situations and not so well for others, how to prepare for the session, the main variables that will change week over week, and what performance scenarios each is best (or not best) for. That's how I've found to optimize things as I've progressed. I also got a DXA scan before and after my diet too, to track how much fat/lean mass I lost on a carb-cycling diet. 129 votes, 79 comments. It's not stupid to start the process sooner than later, if you know what you're doing. 13 outdoors and v8-9 max indoors. Its a lot more similar to a typical gym hypertrophy stimulus because it's a concentric/eccentric exercise. I’m taller and a bit heavier than most climbers at 6’4” and 195lbs, so have identified finger strength to weight as a weakness (one of many to work on). I’m not a sports scientist but where in any other hypertrophy protocol for any other muscle is a 20 second isometric hold used to stimulate hypertrophy? Or does it make more sense that the forearms, like any other muscle, are going to respond to a hypertrophy protocol that looks more like 8-12 reps at 60-80% of max effort per rep. I posted a video of these powerlifters who said the science backed that volume is all that matters for hypertrophy which is the best way to get stronger - by increasing cross sectional area of muscle. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. Looking at the logs, 3 Last point: This is why hangboarding is an interesting phenomenon. Hard bouldering with finger-intensive holds basically does the same thing as repeaters. Hangboarding isnt climbing. If you don't already have pretty strong tendons, the chance of getting injured is high. If you only kept it in a brace for 2 months, I'd be concerned about reoccurring injuries. I've been actively hangboarding for about 8 years now and of course, I started off with the traditional 7-3 repeaters protocol. Hi all, I'm looking for advice on how to start hangboarding and when to fit it into my climbing routine. Nay. Let's say you start with something like 3 sets of 10s hangs with 3 minute So what is the best way to spend an hour or so on a hangboard? Bearing in mind it will probably be once or twice a week, not on a fixed day (my calendar is extremely variable). Does r/climbharder have a preference between hangboarding before vs. Whether you subscribe to the Anderson Brother's hypertrophy theories or recruitment through max hangs (Powerclimbingcompany?), hangboarding is putting a lot of stress on your fingers in order to make them stronger. trueHave you ever seen Emil Abrahamsson's video on sub-bodyweight hangboarding protocol that's referred to in other training companies/articles as "minimums" or something like that? It's 10 sets of 10 second hangs at 30%-50% BW with 50 seconds rest between sets. My blueprint would be staying between hypertrophy and max (like 8x 10s /2 min) for 8 weeks, then dipping into true max (7s) for 4 weeks, restart. Yves gravelle has luck with it. Perhaps a lower volume, moderate density style repeater everyday could be effective (say 3 sets everyday rather than 6 sets every other day). Tyler Nelson on hangboarding at home. Maybe not the best for strength, but it would be a help for endurance and lactate threshold training your forearm muscles. The downsides here would be that the overall load may become too high and result in injury if you're not being careful. It is worth noting I will be hangboarding twice a week during this time. I saw a videon with Magnus where he showed how he trained, and it was a lot of crimping. Something that theoretically is relatively low risk-- results in anecdote after anecdote after anecdote in practice of people getting hurt. Ideally something like the RP app but without the huge price. I weigh about 180 and the bulk of my Best hangboarding routine for newbie gains I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. This is especially true if you haven't been climbing for years and years. In addition, gains made by climbing are still better than what you'll get from hangboarding, so it really shouldn't take priority over climbing. So training for hypertrophy by doing barbell finger rolls will make you stronger in the long run, no one is saying that its the best training for short term performance, but 1 year out, it will be more beneficial than campusing. A place for for those who believe that proper diet and intense training are all you need to build an amazing physique. Under the right conditions, that isometric contraction can cause our muscles to adapt by increasing in sizeaka, hypertrophy. I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. What are the best exercises for ab hypertrophy? I get that abs are made in the kitchen and all that, but if they aren't significantly hypertrophied they'll look pretty sad and flat. This is most effectively accomplished by increase the weight used. His approach seems to be low I too went through a phase of strict hangboarding + weight loss back in 2017, and my numbers (both bodyweight and finger strength) are quite similar to yours. Seems to be a good way to introduce and learn some hangboarding but I'm still a beginner so what do I know! I am slightly confused on what this is for tbh. Start hangboarding any sooner than two years into your climbing career, and you might as well start reading about injury recovery now. Well, Renaissance Periodization says that the hypertrophy phase should be exercises that build the most muscle in order to make the main exercises better. While thinking all of this it occurred to me that there should be one excercise which would make your recruitment strong So as you can see, I didn't really feel like I was at that stage where hangboarding was going to be a regular part of my training, but now it looks like the best alternative thus far if gyms close down again or I think its too risky to go. Tried to design it around the concept of antagonistic muscle pairs, or atleast close to it. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. Because climbing is a skill sport versus a strength sport, many people can achieve high levels (5. I think most people add stuff to hangboarding because just the hangs seems to simple to be effective. It's not hard at all to add hangboarding to a regular gym session. Would I campus and hangboard to warmup or after everything? Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment the_birds_and_bees • For most people it’s best to only hangboard (max hangs) on non-climbing days, assuming you also don’t climb the day before or after hangboarding. In terms of programming I'm doing them at the end of my hangboarding Hangboard hypertrophy is mostly limited to repeaters (?) but 7/3 and 5/5 were both chosen because they mimic climbing durations (?). I boulder for 5 to 10 Hangboarding is a skill and if someone is on and off it then there are some gains to be maxed out there. Now muscle / strength is increasing best when max, hypertrophy and endurance loads are applied. Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. " Medical professionals use "Myofibrillar, muscle, hypertrophy" for the results of following a "Training for strength" routine. I imagine it is because hypertrophy work can coexist easily within various forms of training. I have been hangboarding for a little bit, mostly for half crimp grip (7s on 3s off for 10 reps, etc. It begins with a little talk on the utility of one arm hangs (sport specificity, time constraints, measurability) but it quickly gives way to a discussion on the specifics of isometrics and small muscle hypertrophy. Maybe not stronger holds but you’ll keep the strength you do have for longer. The best way to injure yourself (and the worst way to progress) on a hangboard is through overuse. My For natural lifters who have established a solid base of strength (intermediate level or beyond), what is the best approach for hypertrophy? I've read lots of different approaches regarding frequency, volume, and intensity. The first rule of hangboarding is don't get injured on the hangboard. But then again, you can never be too strong. I do it closer to the bottom of the spectrum (30% BW) for So my main exercises are pull ups, dips, and pike push ups. Discuss NANBF/IPE, INBF/WNBF, OCB, ABA, INBA/PNBA, and IFPA bodybuilding, noncompetitive bodybuilding, diets for the natural lifters, exercise routines and more! All are welcome here but this sub is intended for intermediate to advanced lifters, we ask that beginners utilize I don't think thoughtful, well-read people are arguing that hangboarding is inherently injurious to new climbers. Has anyone here played around much with the number of reps/hang time/rest time used during a hangboarding session? I'm wondering whether there are specific choices for timing that are better for bouldering/power. . The last paragraph was very interesting. The hardest thing about hangboarding for beginners is to not get overconfident and start going to smaller edges and adding weight after a couple of sessions. This is true whether you’re working 5. 12<) without hangboarding. Is it okay to dedicate one session a week for hypertrophy and the other for recruitment? Or am I better off doing a few weeks of purely one kind of hangboarding and then the other? If so - which kind is better to start with for the first few weeks? In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. of course you can introduce negative weight for hanging, but that's extra steps. after a bouldering session? My opinion is that you should boulder before hangboarding because hangboarding allows you to be very precise about the amount of time / duration / intensity. It's likely that any short term gains are more related to getting used to the specific exercise. So, what In the rockprodigy program the Hangboard is used for 'Hypertrophy' - meaning increasing the mass of your forearm muscle. I've talked to several local climbers about training exclusively on hangboard, and people tend to offer different opinions all of which I find interesting. Finger coordination on small holds, skin, active tension on muscle vs passive, more power and contact strength. Btw just rewatched McLeod’s Hangboarding for Beginners for fun, and he mentioned that isometric strength gains are gained equally through intense hanging, but also to fatigue. At some point, hangboarding becomes useful for isolating finger strength. a lot. For example, I've seen people advocating the work of Mike Matthews. (I assume you are not doing it for hypertrophy). I may be wrong but it's my understanding that 5-day splits tend to be less advantageous for hypertrophy due to the nature of protein synthesis, though. I would guess it's a decent exercise for forearm hypertrophy which can be beneficial to long term strength (so you would want to do this at the start of your periodization). Personally, I've seen great gains over using max hangs and weighted min edge hangs. I believe I might be going about grip training in the wrong manner. - Weekly schedules (Meh) There's good reason to have a weekly schedule, in that our society is built about this repeating cycle. I am evaluating different hypertrophy programs offered by some well-known trainers. I'd guess most intermediate climbers should completely avoid it, including while climbing. Muscles gain strength quicker than connective tissue, after all, so too much I should start by saying I'm not terribly worried about getting specific numbers, after all this is just hangboarding but it does raise some questions on training as a whole and other than that not seeing any progress is quite discouraging. Can't imagine going back to doing "leg days". This is in contrast to bodybuilders who don't care as much about moving heavy weights but mainly on hypertrophy -- anything in the about 5-30 rep range is good for hypertrophy. Aside from my usual-- "is hangboarding your best use of time" context question (don't know anything about OP-- here are some thoughts that may help. Hangboarding: Recruitment and hypertrophy, most controlled loading Campusing: Recruitment, contact strength, pulling power of the arms, extreme loading, Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. Hangboarding over the past 2 months has definitely improved my finger strength though. Hey guys looking for a solid 5 day pre made hypertrophy program on an app that I can download on my phone. Many really strong climbers do hard bouldering, campusboarding, and hangboarding for multiple days in a row. I quickly got to where I could hang off the smallest hold which is a 12mm crimp. I also reduced my overall volume when I started hanging, by eliminating one day at the gym; recovery is better! What is the best routine or type of routine for a natty looking to maximize upper body hypertrophy? Hey dudeskis, My new apartment doesn’t have space for a hangboard, so I’m planning on getting a “the block” from tension climbing or a gripster. L-sits, hollow holds and planks probably help hypertrophy a bit, but not much. 5 year self assessment of climbing, strength training, and hangboard. e. Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. Dave says two days per week of hangboarding is the minimum to make any gains. However, on the whole, the advantage you get from working in the hypertrophy range isn’t nearly as big as people seem to think; maybe a ~10-15% advantage per unit of effort invested at most. 18 votes, 25 comments. diff being you can start with less than bw. Your tendons might not be ready for the stress at this level; a hangboard really is a tool for when you have plateaued your strength gains from just climbing and improving technique isn't helping. I'd like to broadcast this question to the larger community. I've been following the intermediate Eva Lopez hangboarding routine that is two days per week and put big emphasis on resting at least 48 hours between sessions. Get started today! In terms of hangboarding, personally, I think every day is a bit excessive. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Details may vary depending on training age. Hey, i was just browsing around the internet the other day and saw a few theories on how the rep/rest/hang ratios all work. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Here we get a really solid cited quote re: isometric joint angles: So do you need hypertrophy training? It depends on what constitutes hypertrophy training, but in general strength training is going to give you all the hypertrophy you need. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. May 23, 2024 · Whether you’re new to hangboarding or looking to up your training game, this guide will walk you through the process step by step. The answer is it depends. This way you're targeting general hypertrophy, but still getting your hangboarding in. Be careful with small crimps - better train weighted repeaters and max hang only on bigger grips (18-20 mm edges). Steven Low (Author of Overcoming Gravity and is also a decently accomplished climber) has an article about forearm hypertrophy and wrist conditioning relating to climbing strength. I have an embarrassingly weak upper body (working on it!), and my Hi all. Reply reply D_Sl4yer • Lattice Training - Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? Thought I'd post this here to open a thread on people's thoughts. forgot to mention, no-hang with pinch blocks. Power Company Podcast and Steve Maisch) The Power Company Podcast with Steve Maisch came out a week or so ago, and I wanted to write up something on it. Therefore you are less likely to get injured. I think that finger strength is definitely a limiting factor in my climbing, particularly max finger strength. Hypertrophy training of the muscles during the offseason seems to me like the better mechanic for long term improvement. I believe that hangboarding has had a positive impact for me! Subjectively (how it feels on the rock) half crimp went from weak to in line with other grips. there seems to be a few theories around right now: hang 10 seconds, rest 5s, X8-10 reps, 2 minute break hang 8-12 seconds, rest 1 min, 4 reps, 5 minute break pyramid building with the first (i. I'd recommend taking it serious at first then gradually moving into power/campus work but continuing to climb intermittently. It seemed like a revelation, especially considering there was even a research paper to help explain how it all worked! Im a fan of climbing stuff but not a rock climber. I tested my max I thought the last slide was interesting about the progression from beginner to advanced best follows full body --> upper/lower --> PPL --> full body. I have done also max hangs and repeaters in the past, but hasn't really seen the results to be as great as I'd wanted. If you don't progress with some scheme described above you are either super strong already or you should think about fixing your climbing training on wall because thats where 90% of your training load shall happen. I would like to know which of these programs you have tried and which one has worked best for you in terms of gaining muscle mass. Wondering if anyone has transferred from hangboarding to using one of these and if they have any suggestions for determining what weights I should get so I don’t end up wasting a ton of dough. I didnt get too much bigger with any previous routine i ran, i have ran proper bulks with the routines too. Many of the most highly regarded coaches provide conflicting approaches. aorwa btwy nefmu vpdg cyd vljns tbyyrpu fwniky gjffakjr ozgyz