Emil no hang protocol. See full list on gripped. I do a variety of diff edges from 10 to 20 mm n some slopers too for the 10 no- hang. Emil describes the protocol he followed in his original youtube video. Producing a total work of 100 seconds. I think that this indicates that for any given hang / rest ratio, 10 mins elapsed time is optimal, though we can't draw conclusions about the optimal hang / rest protocol within the 10 mins from the research paper done. It seems that consistency at the designated intervals seems like the winning factor. Hi so I saw Emil’s famous two day protocol n decided to do a once a day variation where it’s no-hang - legs on ground- 30 seconds on ,30 seconds off for ten times. So, when Emil and his brother designed the training plan, they chose a 10 second load with a 50 second rest 10 times. Hope this clears it up a bit! Nov 6, 2024 · Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave E… Mar 3, 2025 · Abrahangs are static holds (no hangs) performed at relatively low intensity over a period of 10 mins and they’ve been shown to be as effective in increasing finger strength as max intensity holds. Hanging for between 10 - 30s each minute for 10 mins would be my best guess for a starting point. 2M views 4 years ago Sep 6, 2021 · 51:15 – Emil’s “No Hangs” hangboard video, and his caveat for training advice 56:00 – Quick overview of the “No Hang” hangboard protocol, and Emil’s theory of why his fingers got stronger 1:00:16 – We get most of our strength through climbing 1:01:41 – 4x4s and other climbing games. Intensity vary between 50-75%? I can’t really measure tbh with leg on ground just my own For context I weigh 160-170 and can hang and extra 80-120lbs on the 20mm depending on a good day, but some days especially after a rest day or 2 I can barely hang the 20mm body weight if I’m not doing a protocol like this. Emil does the routine in the morning and waits 6 hours to climb in the middle of the day. May 15, 2023 · If you’re totally new to climbing or feel intimidated by high-intensity hangboard protocols, Emil’s protocol is a virtually risk-free way to build confidence with fingerboarding positions, allowing you to start with as low of an intensity as you want with no extra gear required. Jul 1, 2021 · Strong man and climbing YouTuber Emil Abrahamsson and his brother Felix have put together a dead simple hangboard routine that has yielded incredible results for both climbers. Nov 6, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the Mar 3, 2021 · In the paper it does specify that 1 load per 10 seconds was no different than 1 load per second, but this is not well translated into an actual protocol. He says that is probably because Emil had some build up injuries that he rehabbed with this protocol. He did say he doesn't really believe it will make you all of a sudden able to hang on the smallest crimps like Emil does in the video. the comments on Emil's video are scary tbh, people with almost zero climbing experience are going to be experimenting with this protocol. Jan 26, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a methodology that focuses on training finger strength without actually hanging from a hangboard. The concept behind this approach is to isolate and strengthen the finger flexors and extensors while minimizing the strain on the pulleys and tendons. Nov 6, 2024 · The Struggle Climbing Show Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Abrahamsson gained notable attention for his innovative training technique, particularly his “ No Hang Protocol,” which focuses on developing finger strength without traditional hanging from a hangboard. com With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. This approach garnered significant interest after he showcased remarkable performance improvements through this method in just 30 days . The theory behind Emil's routine is to stimulate the fingers every 6th hour in order to speed up finger recovery. Nov 6, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:- Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-h Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days Emil Abrahamsson 278K subscribers 32K 1. I reviewed Emil's video again after talking with a friend who is using the protocol. mouy gcgtyk ttyxq shfsg ufy rqm bmwjec dms kdf honk