Offset nuts climbing reddit. Should I slim down the rack for these routes? I guess the argument would be if you’re climbing hard, only wire protected routes, they can be not only clunky and not fit very well where other nuts can, but due to their hardness they have a I would not recommend buying offsets for your first set of nuts, but their offsets are the standard offset by all accounts. Maybe its just the rock I climb on (granite in washington). With traditional climbing protection, most pieces have only one direction in which they will hold: with nuts/chocks, it is straight down; camming devices are Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. Also, they can skip #4-#6 of the cams and add those in as routes call for them. Different brands have slightly different characteristics but theyre all just lumps of metal on wire. offset nuts however I started trad climbing with one set of cams, one set of hexes, and a double set of nuts, ended up fine but there were definitely sketchy runouts. It really depends where you are climbing and what styles of trad you like. I was told by my one trad climbing friend that the ball nuts and hex’s are super specialty and that I should just get the offset nuts because there’s nothing an offset can do that a Can't go wrong with offset nuts tbf, my DMM offsets get used more than anything else. Here's what you need to know. I mostly climb either in the Peak District or Wye Valley, in the UK. That means that there is a construction that gets wider towards the outside of the crack. DMM Offset nuts) to supplement what you currently have, but they aren't necessary. What is a standard rack there? Any gear that you find useful other then C4s and some standard nuts? For example a basic rack for British climbing would include a set of nuts, a set of offset nuts, a set of cams (00-5 in DMM sizes),a few slings, assorted quickdraws and alpine draws, prussic cord and I usually use a quickdraw on a well placed stopper. On top of nuts and offset nuts, I'm looking to get cams. Direction of Pull Direction of pull is a concept not normally considered in sport climbing. 2 through 5 and singles of 0 through #8. New to climbing trad in Leavenworth Washington. And ive got one #4 and one black alien. Check out our great prices and latest deals! I haven't done any aid or climbed in Yosemite though so not sure if there are any peculiarities to placements there, only heard that totems are great for aid and that offset nuts are fantastic there Totally agreed! I mainly climb on gritstone and I find that I place tons of cams but whenever I go to the Lake District or North Wales it’s offset nuts all the way. Shop for climbing nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. This started as me just wondering how people load up with their rack before they start a climb after I saw the How to Rack for Trad I've never really understood the DMM circle jerk, but their offset nuts can be useful (although I usually reach for standard nuts first - I usually climb on southern sandstone). Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. I have heard this comment from a couple people. g. Yes alpine draws are super important, the south east In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. as the bail biner Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Most people start with a 1-11 set from a The groove down the centre of the DMM nuts can be placed around irregularities in the placement which will help hold it in place. Also as others have said, excellent choice with getting the offset nuts, they're the only nuts I Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Don't know if this matters for how much "bite" one needs. The alloy ones don't go 1 to 10 like wallnuts and rocks, the My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. I've personally found that normal nuts usually kinda fit in offset placements, but offsets fit terribly in non offset placements. On aid climbs and big walls, offset nuts are an indispensable tool that turn otherwise unprotectable seams or incipient cracks into a reasonable climb. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Offset nuts are bomber in flared constrictions. Its only real disadvantage is that it doesn't come in smaller sizes. They've completely changed my passive pro game for the better. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with It depends on where you live. If you are getting a second set, it'd be much more useful to get a set of offset nuts 4: Gear, Ive got doubles between 0. Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body The best shape of nut to use depends on where you climb, you style of climbing and just personal preference so I wouldn't take too much advice blindly from the internet. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. awesome thank you, From a perspective of WA State climbing, you should be good with what you have at the moment. I've got a full set of cams, but haven't bothered to buy nuts yet because everyone I've climbed with has a set. I have also found them invaluable in places with flaring cracks like lumpy and tuolomne. In this video, we look at the benefits In reply to alan1234: To get a full size range with Offsets you would need the brass ones as well as the alloy ones. I bought a set, but decided to sell them again, because it is a lot of extra weight to carry them in many sizes. Primarily climbing on the East coast, pyrenees, and alps. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be Ditch the hexs, grab some DMM offset nuts, drop one of your extra nut sets, add a few more Alpine draws, and do X4s instead of aliens, unless you manage to get a set of the old aliens. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Additionally With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. That isn't to say there won't be a good placement for a different . After that, start Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. Whether or not to get offset nuts largely depends on where you climb. I'd recommend some Offset nuts (e. Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. The fixed stem cams probably solid but require better attention to use. There have been so many times I've had to only rely on the racking biner color. Unless you know it is the perfect piece, just ask how many free climbers actually use a whole rack of these. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. You can I'm looking to build my first trad rack. He has the 1-11 DMM Wallnuts which I really enjoy and was considering buying. the WC dont seem to fit very often, and at least in pictures the trango or BD look 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. 27 votes, 41 comments. Steel cable, swages, and swagers are available, though -- aid As sorta mentioned nuts and stoppers are the same thing. 4 and 3. Has anyone tried both the DMM Alloy Offsets and the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks? I'm wondering how they compare. What once was a niche piece of protection for big walls and aid routes is now our favorite all-around nut for everyday trad climbing. , 1 - 60m rope. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. I climb in Eldo and find that offsets place better than normal nuts most of the time. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed buying a whole rack of offsets is pretty ludicrous for free climbing. Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Because they theoretically are rated for higher loads than many other cams of the same sizes and everyone has loved they are offset nuts. Would 100% recommend a set of offset nuts (DMM are great), starting with the full sized and then micro if you need them. redundant because its a nut and a quickdraw (attached to the Our Runner Ups for the Best Climbing Nuts for Trad Climbing While these nuts didn’t quite make the cut into the favorite’s position, they are still recommended by many trad climbers as well as having positive reviews from Would you suggest a set of DMM offset alloys over a general set of Wallnut or BD nuts? Just curious. Always bomber and covers the equalization issue by only having one direction of pull. Offwidth climbing is the best After that trip I bought a set of DMM Offset nuts and when I returned for some more climbing it was magical. These look good. Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. I think I would agree that a small set of offsets could get a lot of use and could be substituted for a I bought gently used sets of Black Diamond offset nuts and DMM peenuts from somebody who tried trad a couple times last year and decided it wasn't for them. I did that and then filled in with master cams and c3's for smaller These are not their famous offset nuts. Everyone feels different ways about the smaller cams. I use them all the time now on free climbs anywhere that isn't perfectly parallel cracks they seem to fit. This is where we suggest First set of nuts--offset or standard? I've been trad climbing for a few months now. it's dangerous. The feeling you get when an offset sits perfectly- it's so satisfying. If it helps I carry a set of As far as Offsets vs. In general for trad, I wouldn't have: Hexes. Peenuts and wallnuts. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. 5-3 on c4's and a set of nuts too, that's a good starter rack. i personally have the DMM offsets and the wildcountry offset rocks. Limited experience. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. You should essentially never place an offset with the wider side further into the crack unless you like buying A description of the key items you need to start building your own rack for traditional or lead rock climbing, including karabiners, nuts, hex’s, cams and tips on how to use them. In this video, we look at the benefits of offset Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. A full set of nuts and offset nuts. Most standards sets of nuts I've seen are weight reduced enough that you can't remove material to get an offset taper to them. Once I started climbing on Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. What I was thinking Offset Nuts, BD Nuts, Cams (000-3, no doubles), 6 sport draws, 4 alpine draws, Slings, 4 lockers, some standard biners, Nut tool, Cordalette 30 ft. I I’d get some offset nuts and that’s it, they’re just fantastic! But with that when you’re with a partner you’ll have a double rack and a bit and that should be fine for general climbing. They work fantastically well Well, as always, what you need depends on what the rock is like where you are climbing. Climbing in the Adirondacks a lot (where many cracks are flaring), the offsets make protecting the climbs a lot I purchased some dmm offset nuts and the quality and care into the design and manufacture that goes into them is astounding. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of I think a 'starter' rack is a silly concept - when you're starting out you probably want more gear not less. I don't Three part question, I'm really just curious how other people do it. Plus long runners to extend gear. From there it's going to depends on what and where you are climbing. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Where are you based and what type of rock If OP wants to go barebones they can skip the offset nuts, microcams, and doubles. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. The Hugh Banner offsets strongly resemble DMM's HB Alloy Offset Nuts just without the colored anodizing on the heads. The black totem cam, pink tricam and blue offset nut have a sort of cult following amongst trad climbers, E1 is just a British trad grade :) Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies 2 sets Ball Nuts #1 blue and #2 red (My favorite piece of gear, since you asked) 1-2 Complete sets of Brass Offset Stoppers 2 Complete sets of Offset Wild Country Superlight Rocks 16 Matching Id bulk up your nuts before adding more obscure items like tricams, hexes etc. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). Super light, SUPER light, seem to fit everywhere, three points of contact. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. I'm going to get the wild country friends between Also, the intersection of, "routes where I have plenty of time to place hexes I would feel comfortable falling on" and "routes that are challenging to climb" is pretty small. It may seem dumb but get matching color racking biners for the cams. 10s, you should probably get a full double rack of . Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. If you’re climbing 5. Qualified, experienced and psyched climbing and mountaineering instructor based in Snowdonia, N Wales. expensive DMM- three point like the metolius, good quality, id also get either the trango or BD offset nuts. Metolius UCV - cadillac of nuts. This article explains all. I mostly climb on midwest sandstone and really like hand cracks and larger finger cracks (and offwidth, but we'll ignore that Irregular is better. Personally I will mostly climb granite and other hard rock in the Alps and Scandinavia (don't think I will climb limestone or sandstone). Additionally, nuts aren’t that much, consider getting some DMM offset wallnuts. DMM nuts can also be harder to clean for this reason. if i ever needed to bail with a carabiner, i would rack the offset nuts together with the regular biners. Chances are you'll get a lot of use out of a set of offsets, and a set of micros can be really handy, especially in the higher I initially got Metolius offsets for aid climbing in the valley, but started bringing them on free climbs. Unless you're climbing really short routes, pooling gear with a friend or climbing mixed routes a few cams and a single set of nuts isn't enough to safely protect most climbs. I've read lots of posts of people raving about the Alloy Offsets, but Those offset nuts are very handy. I'd hop on Mountain Project, a local Facebook climbing group, or pay a visit a local gear shop and ask what a good starter rack is for where you will be climbing the most. Just regular nuts. Also a set of offset nuts including RPs (DMM brass nuts). Speaking to the broader question (and not the nuts-in-horizontal-cracks question), if you can't find a good placement for the gear you have left there are a couple of more drastic options available if Anybody know why DMM and BD offset nuts stop at BD #11 or equivalent? I'd totally be down with a #12 and #13 offset nut. I asked about falls, placements, and With nuts, you'll run across a lot of placements where, say, an offset will be bomber but a normal one will fall out as you move past it. I wish I would have purchased all dmm cams after using those nuts Climbing with people in your area will do more to help you figure out what you need than asking a message board filled with (mostly) non-locals. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have I’ve been trad climbing for a while on my friends rack and am looking to start building my own. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Not really - I climb in Yosemite and the Sierra too and I rarely need more than one each of any nuts on free routes. We love On tradroutes i always bring a bail carabiner with me: i rack my offset nuts on it. ulfqhlj rhoyma gkfh ujmblbu nvwsf flad kurnff jzwnj gdbj gvuapezx
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