Micro nuts climbing reddit.
See full list on outdoorgearlab.
Micro nuts climbing reddit. See full list on outdoorgearlab.
- Micro nuts climbing reddit. The microrocks and wallnuts can be handy, but they are very weak in comparison to swedges or DMM IMPs, and are very difficult to get out too. Not only did he invent the brass micro-nuts that now bear his initials (RPs), he used to climb with a MOTHERFUCKING PARROT ON HIS SHOULDER. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. 5 racks looking to make it a true double. I tend to lead everything for my friends so own 1. Also looking for opinions on micro cams. And I really love them nuts. Get a single set of nuts and cams from like . 75 for the BD Z4s but don’t have any experience with them. Im going to get rid of the . If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. : r/climbing TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. But the smaller sizes of micro nuts are only rated for direct aid, ie) they can only hold body weight. See full list on outdoorgearlab. If you are an area with lots of flared cracks then a set off sets like DMM offsets combined with the DMM peenut will work great. Apr 28, 2019 · I've only ever climbed on the BD micro stoppers so I don't really have a good comparison but the larger ones do have some crossover with the "non-micro" nuts (and at 8kn are pretty reassuring). I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Do you have a specific reason for not placing and trusting sufficiently strong micro nut placements? I keep three sets of small/micro nuts on a single carabiner (which I only bring on climbs that promise to be sustainedly thin). 5 - #5. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango A lot of other brand micro nuts are rated anywhere from 6 to 10kn. 5 & . I thought it may be of interest to some. 10 and up). Also, they are not as easy to place - you require a very narrow deep crack, whereas the swedges will go in the more normal narrow shallow crack. Thanks in advance!!. Climbit, I would like introduce you to a climber you should know: Roland Pauligk. Jun 4, 2025 · Micro nuts can be incredibly useful if you are attempting to protect pin scars. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. Besides, Black Diamond Micro Stoppers are made of a copper and iron mix which is likely to be stronger than traditional brass micro nuts like RP's. Apr 6, 2017 · Usually micronut placements are for steeper route grades (5. climbing. In the order of how often they get used: Metolius Astro Nuts (free set) - bronze, not brass Black Diamond Micro Stoppers - iron/copper mix DMM Peenuts - aluminum By the time you're trying to place gear this small, it's usually down to weird irregularities in the crack Found this interesting article on Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micro nuts. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. 3 to 3. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. Climber Decks. com Jan 31, 2011 · My favourite micros are the BD swedges (or microstoppers now). com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • Hey everyone! I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. I have a rack of totems then BD C4 . lla vaghym dtiz kdaxhq kscblr uhxj ivpghe idczgq qgqug bzrhv