What is a half crimp Sep 27, 2024 · The issue with full crimping is that, unlike a half-crimp, the ‘fail-safe’ in your body won’t react. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinky is straight (simply because it is shorter). Front 3 half crimp: Good for big moves (pinkie doesn’t catch) and smaller width edges. Oct 4, 2017 · When using the half crimp, the residual distribution (the gray and white vertical boxes) looks to be more equal for different grades. The 3rd is a crimp, not "aggressive half crimp" - it's a crimp. Mar 27, 2019 · Half Crimp. Oct 15, 2021 · A half crimp is a type of grip climbers use in the sports of bouldering and rock climbing. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees, the pinky may be slightly straighter and usually contours the hold, and the thumb either rests next to the index finger or pinches the side of the hold, if possible. Due to the higher forces put through the joints and pulleys it should be trained via climbing Jun 4, 2025 · A half crimp is halfway between the open and full crimp. This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. Full Crimp A full crimp is when your fingers on the crimp hold are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads and your thumb clasps on top of the hold. Full crimp: Good for small edges. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut May 1, 2024 · Half-Crimp: The half-crimp is the grip with the most applications while climbing. But when I engage my thumb and it begins to move up closer to my fingers, I start to enter the half crimp. Full crimp. In open grips, my thumb will feel relaxed and is peacefully dangling off to the side. The half-crimp is similar to the full crimp, but the position of the thumb is different. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. It is a grip position that many climbers become accustomed to for it is the grip position that they train most frequently, however, it could be argued that a four-finger open-had position could often be used in the place of this half crimp. The accuracy of the half-crimp model is higher, hence half crimp is a more reliable measure for climbing performance (grade). I use my thumb as the measuring stick to see where I’m at in a half crimp. The biggest difference between the half crimp and the full crimp is that the thumb wraps over the pointer with the full crimp, and with the half crimp, the thumb doesn’t engage the pointer. The half-crimp is the utility grip, which is used for most flat, sloping and in-cut edges. You can execute this grip technique by placing your fingertips on a handhold and then curling your fingers at the second joint. Jan 31, 2022 · Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. Mar 11, 2025 · A half crimp is a rock climbing grip where your index, middle, ring, and pinky fingers grip the rock, locking at the second joint, and your thumb naturally presses against the side of your index finger for added support. Your PIP joint (the middle knuckle) is fully flexed and your MCP joint (the "fist" knuckle) has some flex in it. Jan 19, 2021 · That would be a full crimp and will be discussed in the next section. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Higher risk than drag positions. Nov 9, 2022 · Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. The DIP and PIP joints are usually also more flexed in a full crimp, which shortens the levers between fingertips and knuckles, putting the hand in a Half Crimp. Three-Finger-Drag. See full list on climbing. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. Die Hand liegt dabei offen an der Leiste an und die Sehnen sind nicht aufgestellt. In dieser Variante des Half Crimps nutzt du nur drei Finger, Zeige-, Mittel- und Ringfinger. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. Meistens genügt der Half Crimp, um in den nächsten Zug zu kommen. Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over Jan 4, 2024 · Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. The Half-Crimp and When to Use It. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. . The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. Sep 11, 2023 · Im Half Crimp bist du zudem weniger verletzungsanfällig als im Full Crimp. Feb 2, 2025 · This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. com Jul 13, 2021 · But the best crimp holds are the ones that are squarely cut and have a slight recess to dig your fingertips into, and these are often found on granite routes or limestone cliffs. Also, you have some hyperextension of the DIP joint. That the only difference between a crimp and a half crimp; whether or not the MCP is flexed. When to Use Half crimp vs. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. hlcitcmbwifrslljlsvasnigqjmitmslkziwodassfsexfque