- What do you need for lead climbing for beginners reddit. 6 if you aren't confident leading. Start reading Climbing and Rock and Ice. Dec 30, 2023 · Lead climbing opens up new possibilities and challenges for climbers looking to advance beyond top rope climbing. As you lace up your climbing shoes and secure your harness, you can't help but think of this moment as a metaphor for life itself – full of obstacles, uncertainties, and exhilarating triumphs. I am a beginner, and I have two places nearby which I can attend, one with indoor climbing, and another with indoor bouldering. I'm collecting all the gear I need for it but I'm confused on what I need to buy for cleaning routes. 11s on slab I am starting to learn lead climbing, but I want to try ice climbing and alpine climbing. Also you can get by using an Ikea blue bag for $1 instead of a $40 rope bag. I'm climbing at a 5. It’s easy to get injured early on because climbing is awesome and you want to stay at the gym and climb for 5 hours even though you’re dead. Sounds dumb and obvious, but this realization totally changed my climbing and if you're a TR warrior with outdoor goals, it could change yours. What is Lead Climbing? Please see my reply to tongmengjia here. Lead sport outdoors to start. Regarding rope climbing, if the gym does not have any self-belay system than you might need a partner and you should start learning basic safety procedures for lead or top-rope climbing belaying. So: Climb the first pitch like a regular sport climb. Everyone’s climbing journey is different, though, so get the gear that’s right for your own Learn how to lead climb! This series of articles teaches you everything you need to know to lead climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. What kinda of gear will i have to pick up before I start? Eg, shoes to avoid/pick up, what to look for in good gear, what are the essentials and what are nice pieces of gear that are supplementary? Thanks for your time! But when you get to the top of a super hard problem and you are completely gassed, it can be stressful looking for a big jug to grab onto quickly. All the basics in one place to help you transition from single-pitch to multi-pitch routes. Sure, the harder the climbing becomes the more important arm and core strength become. The basics of learning to lead and build simple anchors. It really depends what exactly you want to do and where you live. And even then, having to make the decision of whether to use a sport draw or a trad draw is an extra decision that doesn't need to be made while on lead. Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. The first 3 or 4 times I was just doing really easy stuff and didn't really talk to anyone. Find something that looks cool there, do a more targeted search for other things in that general area, and consider buying a guidebook for more detail on that area. Climbing it a sport where strength helps, but being stronger doesn’t always correlate to being a better climber. It includes choosing a rope with Did you guys take lessons when you started climbing and did it improve your skill? tldr: Do I need a certificate to lead-climb and will technique lessons improve my climbing? Edit: Since my question raised a discussion about climbing certificates and being allowed to climb in gyms I'll add my own experience. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. These tips, from pro climber Jenya Kazbekova, are where to start. Flail on bouldering wall for 20min. Fast clipping makes lead climbing so much easier. 8 with little difficulty. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. The problem is that my local gym that I have a membership to says you need to be climbing at least a 5. 10a make the climber climb to 6th quickdraw take an announced fall then continue climbing and take a suprise fall then finish the route. Take with the people there to see if you can get a lesson with one of the trainers to get you started. Here's your guide to indoor rock climbing. The issue is I do not know where to start. My goal is to be climbing outdoors by next spring. I would love to learn how to lead belay so I can go outside. My issue is that I am now at a level where I flash v3s very consistently and I have to learn to climb v4s and v5s. Start going every day. f you have the time and the means, I would go to Squamish just because there's a lot more to do out there compared to Leavenworth. Learn about climbing styles, essential gear and how to climb indoors and outdoors. Tri-also, if you If you don't have any more experienced friends who can teach you to lead climb then it's probably your only option. Being able to maintain good technique at You need to try the shoes on or know what type of feet the manufacturer makes shoes for. 10x/V4 because of your fingers alone? Just I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Interested in lead climbing? Want to learn more about it? Learn everything you need to know with this definitive lead climbing guide for beginners. I work at a gym and we do our test on a 5. They must know what a back clip is and a z clip as well as show confidence while doing so. Just start climbing, mess Nov 3, 2021 · There’s a lot of advice out there for beginner climbers. It depends on what you consider to be your sport grade. What do you guys recommend starting off, go for top of the line screws or get heavier rack and then upgrade to lights couple seasons later? Reddit's rock climbing training community. So I know I want a more advanced, agressive pair of shoes and I would really prefer to buy La Sportiva ones because I know I fit into those best. Most beginner's at my gym use the maxim equinox because its the cheapest rope that the local MEC carries. The intro to trad courses frequently involve focusing on trad gear placements and anchor building - definitely useful if you want to get into trad (tho it seems that you might focus on sport Being new to lead climbing is being new to lead climbing no matter what level you can top rope. The best way in my opinion and how I got into climbing was just as you said to go down to the local gym. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. Make friends. If you're referring to onsite, just bump up the grades a bit. Couple of things come to mind. A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. This is the world of lead climbing – a sport that transcends the boundaries of physical challenges and mental fortitude. The mere fact that you are unsure of the equipment you need to lead climb tells me that you are clearly not going to lead safely. Training for roped climbing by just roped climbing is much higher time commitment to progress ratio I believe. . Jun 1, 2021 · We’ll discuss whether rock climbing solo is safe or not, some common solo climbing activities, and how to find climbing partners. There are 3 guide services IIRC, I used Alpine Ascents Train more than you think you have to But ultimately, what I found was soloing isn't really compatible with climbing, because a big part of climbing--and particularly the type of climbing I wanted to do--is falling. You’ll do a lot better and progress quicker climbing more since your feet are comfy :) I recently gained my lead certification at my gym and I’m really excited! But yikes lead climbing is scary! I’m a very strong and capable climber (was top roping 12s before) but I get so in my head when I lead climb, I find myself resting at every clip and barely making it up a 10b. As a brand-new climber, I think the best thing you can do to get better is to climb more. My gf and I have been climbing (mostly indoors) about a month and a half and I've decided I want to buy some top roping gear for outdoors climbing. Can somebody explain to me, why you prefer bouldering to indoor climbing or vice versa? What is the reason? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I've research the many anchors that can be done Apr 22, 2022 · If you’re interested in trying climbing for the first time, the gym is great place to start. If you have to drive more than a few minutes, turn this into a camping I’ve (34F) been climbing for about 18 months now (mostly sport with a little indoor bouldering), and have recently started to really try to work my weaknesses to open up more outdoor route possibilities for myself. If you can walk you're ready to start climbing. Take your time, don't rush into anything. 274 votes, 101 comments. Rental shoes make it harder to learn footwork as they are untrustworthy, but most people use them until they know they like the hobby. I’m comfortable leading low 5. If you want to progress, you're gonna have to get out Either don’t go super hard but get in volume and work on technique or do max level climbing but stop once you start to lose strength. If you are referring to projecting grades, V4-V5 should be fine for most moves on a given 5. 3 times a week in the gym, one full day outside on weekends for a total of 4 days. Then do a multipitch with a partner. I personally prefer jumping around for a 3 minutes, do like 10 pushups and start climbing easy stuff. Maybe you pick a line with two similar graded routes and do open feet, or hands Aug 28, 2021 · The complete beginner's guide to multi-pitch climbing. I've had my evolv phantoms 3 months into climbing and I for sure will never climb Daniel's v17. Get better. Start top roping. Yes, it’s just as cool as it sounds, but it’s also dangerous, so you need to be thoroughly prepared. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. It is great that you take lead belaying seriously and care about your climbing partners’ safety! Next to climbing shoes, harness, belay device and helmet there is not much you need to get sport climbing in various places. Climbing mt rainier (edit with a guide) doesn’t require experience but strong physical fitness is a must as well as $2500 or so for guide and rental equip. The worst thing you can do is avoid it because it scares you. You are much better off climbing 30 problems easy enough that you can have the presence of mind to focus and refine technique rather than tearing yourself apart at the limit. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. Most people can be onsighting 5. Is top rope climbing just like belaying or is it different somehow? Title. Also, remember that gym grades are usually softer than outdoor grades. For you this means you need dry if you're a guide or going ice climbing/mountaineering, because normal people and climbing- you just stop climbing when it's wet out. Go to gym in street shoes. It's annoying when the bar tack hangs up on the biner. Any time I google "beginner strength training for climbing" or other variations, I only ever find the "don't hangboard as a beginner" or "wait until you do v4-5s before considering strength training" answers. There is a variety of different things you can do to start climbing. The dual adjustable straps. I need some advice. Fairly new climber here, I learned to lead belay with an ATC, but recently got a Grigri and feel a lot more confident with it. I was in your position about a month ago and just went for it and have been having a great time. Climbing shoes have wildly differing shapes. There's a misconception that climbing requires a crazy amount of upper-body strength. 12- and V5-6 for a given 5. In order to lead climb at the gym you'll need a belay device (an ATC or whatever suits your tastes) and carabiner to attach the device to your harness and hold the rope. Most of the people I lead climb with were already using a Grigri when they began leading and learned that way. The belayer should use proper belay technique, control the slack properly, not short Are you going to the gym to top rope or lead sport? are you going outdoors to top rope or lead sport? What is the skill level of your climbing partner (s) and what equipment will they have? Fear while lead climbing, especially your first times outside, is kinda expected, and completely normal. 10 as 5. Below you will learn the basics of lead climbing–what it is and how to do it. Been climbing for almost 4 years. I've started to think about lead climbing and so has my climbing partner. Make your reservations right when they release the dates (summer / fall the year before). I know evolvs fit my feet so I stick with their phantoms for downturned aggressive shoes and their Kronos when I need a softer shoe. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. These beginner tips from the world's number-one climber sound wild, but they'll get you up that wall faster. But I really can't decide if I want a stiff or soft shoe. 12+. And fit is the most important thing about climbing shoes. If you're lead climbing at the gym, check with a gym employee to find out what gear is provided. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems I’ve been lead climbing in a gym with my friends for a couple years now. How many QuickDraws will I need? What’s the best online place to find good routes? What are some of your favorite routes? (We can comfortably send 11’s indoors). I have questions about the difference between top rope climbing and lead climbing. There is no beginner shoe. Go back a week later and repeat. But then I think it would be You could ask someone experienced to watch you as you belay and give you feedback. We really want to go down to the gorge to enjoy the fall weather and try some easier climbs. Then lead trad outdoors. Is top roping something that we can learn on our own (with the aid of online videos and books/guides) without somebody more experienced to go with us? I've talked to a few experienced climbers at my gym and they say as long as I have basic gear I started out top roping and slowly worked myself into lead. Depends on the area you're climbing. I only bring double The only thing I would add is that if you know who you will be climbing with, talk to them first. Lead climbing allows you to explore more adventurous multi-pitch routes while sharpening your risk assessment, gear placement, and climbing abilities. A buddy is gonna do some easy multi-pitch sport climbing with me this weekend and I would like to have an idea of the steps involved. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Maybe x-dreams or nomics if you guys think that's the better route. Climb consistently to build up a base level of forearm endurance and recovery. For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. These were our favorites. Don't do that. I failed my indoor lead climbing test last night almost immediately & I’m really struggling to talk myself into trying again because I’m afraid to fail again. If you don't have good footwork, you could really end up hurting yourself with a nasty ropeburn if you fall wrong. Good luck and have fun! Hi all, M32 10 years of climbing, 67kg circa 170% BW max hang on 20mm. So go to a shop, try on as may shoes as you can and buy the one that fits your feet best. The course will speed up your learning curve timeline by a year or so. Once I got a little more comfortable I started to ask people for help if I was struggling with a problem and people are generally super Generally you should avoid too much stretching as warm up the rest is up to you, climbing, jumping, dancing. But for adjusting the heel and even fitting "more comfortably sized" shoes, I find the dual strap to be more effective. Learn how to control your jumps to the ground, and fall onto your back (if you need). Jun 20, 2025 · The differences between rock climbing ropes can quite literally mean life and death. Here's what you need to know to buy your first rope. Gyms find it easier to teach lead safety crap when you have some experience with top rope belaying and aren't learning basic movement. Guiding/courses: Is a beginner course necessary? I watched a few videos on how to set TR anchors for ice climbing and it doesn't seem that bad. The home of Climbing on reddit. You're just as likely to make a stupid mistake on a 5. But a huge part of climbing is about technique and learning to get as much weight as possible on your strongest muscles . Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. Sep 13, 2021 · Lead climbing, often called “sports climbing,” has gotten so popular that it just made its grand Olympic debut at the Tokyo Olympics 2021. One moment I'm like well, I don't climb a lot of overhang stuff since most of our toproping is either slab or vert so it would make sense to get a stiffer shoe. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. Just go and start climbing, you don't really need any youtube videos. I've made many bolted, gear, and natural anchors for rock climbing both top and bottom managed. I'm going to go in a little blind so I can play around with the sport and get to grips with a indoor wall and a playful intuition. Get invited on an outdoor bouldering trip. I know in a regular belay test (at my gym, anyway), they cover different safety checks, knots, etc. Get started rock climbing with this expert guide from REI. You could also ask this person to have their hand on your end of the rope as a back-up brake. We went there last year to boulder and were asking about I'm reluctant to prescribe a one-size-fits-all for every climber about what they should do in their first few years of climbing as you really need a mentor who can actually see what you're doing. Hey climbit, What do you have to do at gyms to pass a lead belay test? I'm belay certified, and I've lead and was taught to belay for a leader recently with a friend. Edit: guess I should add the specific V strap design. Ask the staff what is in the lead test. I rarely have an issue getting my toes to do what they need to do. At least from what I've seen. Feb 23, 2020 · We provide you with the key essentials for rock climbing whether you are starting out bouldering, indoor lead climbing or venturing outdoors. At my gym you absolutely do not need to attend a beginners course to get into bouldering! They do have a brief tour/orientation at your first visit that goes over what you absolutely need to knkw to climb safely. Decide you probably just need climbing shoes. This article is the perfect place to start. They said I should be able to consistently climb an 11b or higher before lead climbing, and I should wait a little bit longer. Buy a used pair on eBay for $35. General insight: footwork is everything with lead climbing. In addition to standard items like a rope, harness, shoes and a helmet, the lead climber needs to carry gear specific to either sport leading or trad leading. I would like to start training and potentially go on my first alpine in the next year. Dec 10, 2024 · Lead climbing requires you to stay focused, especially on reading the route, pacing yourself, and managing your fear of heights. ) I'd say 10 is the right number for most pitches, unless you're supplementing with sport draws. e. I would appreciate any tips or suggestions for a newbie. You should be well aware of the necessary equipment and processes for the type of lead climbing you’ll be doing. I finally borrowed some basic stuff and gave it a try and I LOVED it. I talked to my gyms front desk about a lead climbing course for my partner and me. A lot of Reddit has this do-it-yourself attitude and this is not a safe approach for rock climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Maybe there's glaciers to A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Facebook, look for a climbing group local to your area attend events at your climbing gym look for a meetup of climbers in your area find the local climbing spots and just go reconnoiter, i. It's great to start off with top, it's a good way to learn technique and build confidence but if you're waiting to reach a point where you know 100% you're ready for lead, you might not reach it. Outdoor climbing is a different beast where for each type of climb you may have a different shoe, but what about for those long days in the gym? What shoe do you use/recommend that manages to perform on boulder problems and walls alike yet doesn't get uncomfortable for those longer days of nonstop climbing? You won't need anything else until you want to step up to lead climbing, which is more advanced than top roping. Some people can’t, don’t or won’t do give yourself some credit :) Secondly remember that you don’t need to climb all the way to the top (especially when warming up), or do It in one go, or use the routes they set. See full list on climbing. Climbers need to analyze the path ahead carefully, spotting holds and planning their movements. And yes we are scared of falling. I started out bouldering all you really need for that is a pair of shoes and some calk. 12 votes, 98 comments. 8a+ RP, 7c OS, 7B+ boulder I've been climibing on lead for training my whole life and occasionally gym bouldering, aways had good endurance and good recover ability. But, figuring out what gear to initially purchase can be challenging. com The gear you need for lead climbing builds upon the essentials for top-rope climbing. Jan 13, 2025 · Your kit doesn't matter, your strength isn't key; put your phone down and get frustrated. 5-3 hours on training days, 6-8 hours outside (but not a ton more actual climbing time) V6 short project, V7 occasionally, V8-V9 limit projects. Any gains you get from tight shoes will be instantly lost as a beginner if you experience pain or discomfort. just go watch, it's still a fun activity just to hike to find the climbing spots. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking The skin ripping and exhaustion is concerning. 10 in a gym relatively quickly. Oct 7, 2022 · But take it from us – you don’t have to rush into leading climbing. Build skills with your climbing partner until you’re both comfortable with a more alpine style objective. There’s a lot to learn on the wall — knots, techniques, movement, etiquette — but there’s also a lot of gear involved. Hey guys :) I have been climbing indoors for about a year now. A large percentage of the outdoor routes in my area are at least slightly overhanging, and overhang seems to be my biggest weakness. Also also, some gyms seem to want to proactively restrict the number of lead climbers for whatever reason. Is there anything else like this for a lead belay test? From what I've researched, looks like they check fundamentals like: no So I guess the summary of this would be: - I'd find an intro to climbing or sport climbing course. I take a very systemised approach and probably only put in 4-6 hours training a week. Next I’ll buy my own equipments and keep on climbing. . You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. 1. And I can`t decide for myself which of them is more interesting for me. I always wanted to get into climbing but i didn’t have the basic equipment, and was a bit lazy to get started. What recommendations does anyone have for starting? What gear I should need? A good first alpine? Training routines? Getting close to leading some grade 2-3 stuff, have a couple BD turbos, but torn between buying nice ulta light screws, or being new getting more turbos assuming i'll dull them up screwing into rock. Carry a couple slings just in case you need to extend something (guide books/mountain project generally does a good job explaining what to expect to need). 2. And when you read the route, include the clips with it, including body position for the most effective clipping position. Honestly any time you want, if you wanted to you could have bought shoes before ever climbing, it is just personal preference. Technique is going to be your biggest weakness as a beginner. All the times I tried campusing or moonboarding a lot in my training, it resulted in pulleys inflamation, and since I was seeing good result with only lead Sep 8, 2021 · So you’re hooked on climbing. Assuming you're talking about winning you probably need to be climbing well into the double digits and consistently flashing up to around v8/7B+. The best thing you can do is directly address your fears while intentionally using language It took me a pandemic to realize I should exclusively lead climb in the gym if I want to be a better lead climber outdoors. What range of mountains is easily accessible for you? Bluntly, how much money are you prepared to splash out? For many people, mountaineering is an extension of hiking. That allows me to do many other things with my life, but still enjoy hard climbing. If you want to stretch you should do it after your warm up or after your session. Whichever slings have a smooth transition at the bar tack are best. Just have fun on the wall! You don't need to hangboard! Yes your finger strength is currently lacking as a new climber but the consensus seems to be hangboarding in the first year of climbing is likely to lead to over-use injuries on those tender finger tendies. First absolute props to you for getting back on the sharp end. Take some time climbing to the tops of easy boulders and just jumping down in a very controlled manner. It can be daunting to get started in the climbing gear world, so we put together a list of what gear you’ll want to buy, when, and why. Learn actual technique from friends. Any advice for how to overcome this anxiety? I love climbing and think leading is really fun, but so far I While I am not sure the specifics of the course offered at your gym, the one near me is for people looking to up their grades. I think at the the beginner level you progress a lot more by trying different types of routes, learning better technique, and gradually getting stronger as you climb than working out separately. Once I get to the 2 bolts at the top of the first pitch: I need to anchor in. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). Besides, are you really failing that 5. Take your time and get started with lead climbing in a methodical manner. There are so many more opportunities in climbing when you know how to lead. The instructor isn't going to take you on some choss pile. I've been bouldering at a gym for two years and recently started sport climbing, too. It was easy to get comfortable climbing top, and I still get nervous climbing lead. Or better yet 5 problems 6 times to really dial them in. [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. I applaud you for investing in instruction for yourself. 10 beforehand. How you deal with that is where more knowledge, experience and tactics can make a huge difference, and set you up for success or failure. You may not need draws or a rope, which are the most expensive part of a sport rack. They walk up bigger and steeper things that start needing more equipment and skills, eg ice axe, crampons and knowing how to use them. Get a job at the climbing wall I would say you should definitely be very comfortable with all aspects of belaying top rope before doing lead, as lead belaying is much more complex, but you definitely do not need to know everything about climbing technique before taking the plunge. the lead climbing part is easy (don't have your leg behind the rope, don't zclip, know how to clip, don't back clip, know how to fall is basically all you need to know for a gym test. Do not intentionally get them with room in the toe but you also don’t need to intentionally cause your toes to curl. Sep 20, 2023 · Sport climbing is one of those hobbies that’s mostly free and extremely accessible once you own the gear. What I recommend to people who want to start outdoor climbing is first get a course. I've already researched it a bit, but I'd just like one more point of reference. This means you might have to climb with slightly sore Jun 12, 2025 · We put 23 pairs of climbing shoes to the test on boulder problems, sport climbs, and traditional routes. hauaucv swhd hiqodi pdnpd npzoyl zmmhh cqz adklmqv yuvv bcjr