Bouldering comp reddit. I use Instinct VS and VSR for everything, sport climbing 5.

Bouldering comp reddit. When the opportunity comes up to go to a great bouldering destination you need to pass it up to instead attend a pro-level comp that you know you'll get destroyed in because in order to be the best you need to climb with the best. Every competition/gym might have a different format. Giving someone an un-wanted beta spray down while they are climbing will make a lot of people mad at you, which is why you should never do that unless you know that person, and they are asking for advise. Setters probably have a stricter definition, but when I think of "comp style" problems I think: Tends toward dynamic, coordination type movements. Here are a list of shoes that i tried: La Sportiva: Kubo (these were almost the perfect fit) Solution Comp Skwama Vegan (I have to see if i can find regular ones at a different In the open qualification round for a smaller bouldering comp (free-for-all on trying all boulders) a couple years ago, possibly in the UK, she'd have placed 16th ish or so for the men? All bouldering competitions dot not necessarily work the same way, especially local ones but here is how the world cup works: it is based on 3 rounds: qualifications (5 problems), semi-finals (4 problems) and finals (4 problems) for each competitor and problem, and during the allocated time, the number of attempts are recorded, as well as topping it up and getting the bonus hold. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). I tried them on and loved them but REI didn’t have solution comps to compare. Keep in mind, also, that comp setters (WC level) know the actual heights and ape indexes of everyone at all rounds of a comp-- and set and tweak specifically to attempt to keep overall boulder difficulty/comp difficulty inbounds for whoever has made the round. Reddit is generally not a good venue to tap into well experienced climbers. For top roping / lead climbing Vertical world Seattle and Edgeworks Bellevue are my two favorites because the walls are pretty tall and the setting is really good. Hey guys so I guess my question is if you guys have ever done any bouldering competitions. So im not sure if itd be fair to me The best comp climbers are well rounded, and can execute slab, crazy comp parkour moves, compression, and nails crimping. Janja Garnbret (most dominant competitor in the most stacked era of comp climbing ever) Tomoa Narasaki (most consistent male competitor over the last bunch of years, also flashed v14) When the comp begins, don't just start jumping on problems. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. What are some ideas you guys have? Comp grades range from V2 to V12, but most of these kids are not touching anything higher than a 4 or 5. Which place is cheapest and A fun one from the comp set at Urban Climb Collingwood - the sloppy second go after the cleaner send burn pumped me out. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? I’m climbing up to V4 level at the moment. Im also in a weird spot since the comp is broken up into a v0-v2, v3-v6 and then v7 plus. All city gyms are fair imo. Bouldering Comp Question Obligatory mention that rules don't matter outside competitions. Does anyone know how much it is for each place? Does it vary from… Got riled up from another post about grading, so want some data to feed my curiosity. I imagine you can wear whatever you want! And I La Sportiva solution vs solution comp fit? : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit I’d like to use this post as a place for less experienced or just interested non-comp climbers to ask more experienced climbers about the art of competition climbing. If your gym uses a color scheme for grading, what are the… I do climbing but i want to get into bodybuilding to weigh up for the pull strength i get from climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. One gym I used Solution Comp are better for edging and precision, Skwama are softer and better for smearing (mainly in indoor volumes), being for me the best for all-around, it is very rare for me to find and edge indoor I can't stand with me Skwama. Climb them! Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. 2, v7s under my belt but mostly just because they were set easy and were geared toward my style. Sport and top rope though, I really enjoy the We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The local comps I've heard of usually have a qualification time (several hours) in which you climb boulders and get points for each boulder based on how hard they are. Even if you are not a parent my son works really hard to share his climbing with as many people as possible and we hope you can enjoy it. Don't you get bored of the same old style over and over again? I like variety and creative setting myself. The same thing happened to me last fall - I signed up for my first comp and wasn't expecting anything, just wanted to have fun and experience it. Movement training and climbing 3D volume boulders is important for comp climbing. I have rock climbed a fair bit but not a whole lot (maybe 10 or so times). Sure there are often power problems that require you to pull V10 or 11 moves, but in general the problems go ungraded. There are many who feel that competition climbing has become a distinct entity from outdoor climbing, to the point where it can be viewed as a sport within itself due to the implementation of In bouldering more so than in lead, a large part of the difficulty is the time gated onsight. But if you've been consistently climbing the whole time 3 weeks of campusing isn't going to be THAT noticable. See full list on rei. If you are new to climbing or like comp style problems then 9 degrees is the best option. As the title say, I've been coersed into taking part in my first ever comp. Sure, there's power moves, but we've seen problems untopped that were graded in the low 7s. com Feb 13, 2019 · This is my attempt at creating a list of resources that beginners and experts alike can use to find local, regional, and national events and competitions for rock climbing, bouldering, indoor climbing, and any other climbing related activity. If you want to train, get strong and climb problems similar to outdoors, St Peters. At our local university gym, we wanted to host a bouldering competition, but we are unsure what format to use, especially for the final. I think every comp is a bit different so best if you just ask your gym about the format. Often it's much harder or impossible to do the moves statically. Reply reply NocturnalLightKey • Every comp (even nationals) that I went to let you choose if you wanted to compete in the beginner, intermediate, or advanced categories for the red tape portion of the comp. I’ve always been into climbing (as a child, I was VERY good at climbing trees) but I’ve never done bouldering. Have I got enough time to become adequate enough to compete? I know some climbers like Ai Mori were winning Japanese nationals at 12 This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. Does anyone have any tips or tricks that might help this experience more productive and enjoyable?? Anything is 3 days ago · How do bouldering competitions work? It’s the big day of your comp! Depending on if it’s speed climbing, lead climbing, or a bouldering comp, the specifics will be different. They are: risk, intensity and complexity. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. If anything, I find comp climbing (and training for it) excellent for helping me identify my lingering deficiencies and burgeoning advances. At 8 in a comp set for <11 years old I'm super proud to share my son's performance at one of the USA Climbing Bouldering Qualification Event competitions! Next week is another comp! Was at a bouldering comp, absolutely dominated there. Not sure if I should enter the: V2-v4 level Or V5-v7 level ? I am projecting v6 mostly at this point. And fit is the most important thing about climbing shoes. I’ve been researching online and la Sportiva solution comp shoes seem to be really popular- but everyone strongly advises against them for being uncomfortable and expensive ( for a beginner. Apr 6, 2025 · A comprehensive subreddit for all things comp climbing. I've only been climbing roughly 8 months so I'm trying to gain as much experience as possible. 671 votes, 66 comments. The pressure of having to execute and compete in a I know youth climbing isn't everyone's cup of tea but I've noticed Reddit is feeding me more climbing parent content and hoping this reaches the right audience. The weird mid top on the inside of the ankle seems unnecessary honestly. Tonde Katiyo, a setter for these things likes to use a three aspect system to talk about a climbs difficulty. Partly for a fun change, and partly because I realized my bouldering goals just do not line up with comps. Im just kinda nervous about signing up for it and just then competiting. Board climbing makes you stronger, but you really need to work on slab and movement to match. I love comp style setting. So in general, its a requirement for a valid finish to have a stable position with both hands touching the finish hold. The benefits of this plan? Enhanced power, endurance, muscular strength, finger strength, and the ability to conquer comp-style boulders. I mostly want to do it just to be able to compare myself amongst peers around my skill level (v3-v4) area. Since most of the people come only for rope climbing, we want to focus on the fun in the competition, so that bouldering gets more popular. Every shoe that I have tried doesn't mesh well with my feet. Is this standard practice? It was a redpoint bouldering comp and I feel like a lot of people were really confused where they stand. I have some questions regarding progression and training and things like that. This info is in other places on the web, including r/climbing on reddit. La Sportiva Solution Comp vs Scarpa Instinct VSR? Pros and Cons? I have been using instinct VSR's for years but cannot find any to buy. Things like tactics and strategy are extremely important when it comes to competing. Result isnt my focus simply using this as an opportunity to expose myself to more pressure while climbing. I've been climbing for more than 20 years and they are some of the best shoes I've had at that size. I am open to any suggestions. I use the VS for thin edging, and VSR for everything else. I feel like I'd be sand bagging entering in the v2-v4 range but the I've always been predominantly a boulderer, especially for comps. Couldn’t quite read the oversized checks at the Brixen comp. 12 and bouldering V6-8 in the Front Range. Vital west is cool though I haven’t been since it went under new management but probably the same. How do I train for a bouldering comp that's 6 weeks away? I'm climbing v5-v6 right now I will be competing in my first ever bouldering comp in June, however, I'm not sure what difficulty I should be putting myself in. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. Take 15+ minutes to walk around and inspect every problem-- look for routes that suit your strengths, take note of anything that looks like you can break the beta, etc. EDIT: I settled on La Sportiva Theory shoes after trying on and climbing in about 6 different shoes (Drago, Furia Air, Solution, Solution Comp and Theory all in various sizes) A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Even if you aren't a fan of competing in climbing, you still get to go to the gym and meet new people, learn new techniques, and the crowd may make you climb harder than you thought you could. the best 1. Hello all, I would like to get into bouldering and I’m wondering which place is better to go to - Urban Climb (preferably Milton but can do West End) or 9Degrees (at Enoggera). Lots of gyms are large enough that this isn't a huge impact and it gets members in the gym. 11/10 would do again. Have fun OP! r/ClimbingvidsFilming with a drone at one of the best beginner crags in Washington! We ran into a few logistical hurdles with the drone, but the shots turned out pretty cool! Let me know if you have tips for filming climbs with the drone. I'm starting to shift to sport climbing mainly for comps. Some basic ideas I had are: Get as many tops in a set time Read the climbs and pick 4 you think you can complete. Giant slopers Stupid question: What is a comp wall? My gym just turned one of the walls into a comp wall. 176 votes, 86 comments. That said, for indoor, especially bouldering the softer the rubber generally the better, so xsgrip 2 from La Sportiva/scarpa. 16K subscribers in the Climbingvids community. Climbing shoes have wildly differing shapes. The comp was a unique redpoint style (not the USA Climbing format). Finished the comp boulders early, so i tried some other stuff in the gym. Someone at some point realized that traditional outdoor style climbing wasn’t really all that fun to watch and comp problems were made to be more to be fun to watch than fun to climb. Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. But here’s how my experience has been in participating in the Sportrock Adult league competitions. LS Ondra Comp : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit I’m looking for new bouldering shoes that I can use at the gym and outside and was recommended solutions. The climbing hours only include climbing at your intensity and the rests between those climbs. For more details: Skip to main content Fun comp problem (bolt holds were used 😓) : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit How do I improve my technique? bouldering for about 4 weeks slowly working my way up, but I feel like I’m learning some bad habits that won’t help me in the long run, plus can’t wait to buy shoes. Harlem has really fun setting! Try to check out some of the outdoor bouldering NYC has to offer too. You probably need to uproot your life and move to Boulder, Co. Holds tend to be very large or very small. I fell badly, left elbow broke and got dislocated (My forearm was pointing 180 degrees in the wrong direction) This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes with the rank they would have obtained using the current scoring calculations for climbing (which will be used at the 2024 Olympics in Paris). As others mentioned they don't really stretch at all, on account of all the rubber. What resources can I check out to learn about training? My gym does have two hangboards and a tension board. I've been climbing for over 22 years now. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Background: We are a small gym with focus on rope climbing, but we have also a small bouldering area. Bellevue has really good bouldering too but some of it is closed atm. Thus a strange bastard child of parkour/gymnastics/climbing was born. Cordless and proud. It's very hard to determine grades for the world cup problems because they tend to be trickier more than physically hard. From the ball of the foot backwards the SolComp flexes more easily, but as long as you have the foot strength, power at the tip of the toe is pretty much identical. A lot of casual comps have an open round (everybody climbs like a normal session, but tracking how many attempts to finish the comp boulders you try) and then finals with a handful of climbers from each sex, where each person tries the/each boulder separately for a certain amount of time. And if comp climbing can get you there, then by all means start getting into it. I can flash v5s every once in awhile but still mostly takes a few attempts. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. The difference between flashing and onsighting doesn't matter so much in bouldering, but is taken much more seriously in sport and trad climbing. I used chatgpt to create a training program for me: Day 1 climbing Day 2 Legs Day 3 rest Day 4 climbing Day 5 push Day 6 rest Day 7 climbing Comp problems are basically a completely different sport a lot of the time. I use them mostly for indoor bouldering but they are amazing on indoor sport climbing and outdoor bouldering as well. My buddy can pull V10 but good luck getting him up trickky slow slabs. My gym has a scale rating like so: V0-2 (white) V1-3 (red) V2-4 (orange) V3-5 (yellow) V4-6 (green) The comp has 4 categories and it was said to pick which category based on your "flash grade". Aesthetics are an important part of the setting. They also press their own rubber as opposed to outsourcing like La Sportivas or Scarpas, so they made their rubber the exact way they wanted it. or SLC, Utah. Everything you do from when you step A subreddit dedicated to discussing and reviewing climbing shoes. 384K subscribers in the bouldering community. This is my first time. First, I finished 4th in my first bouldering comp yesterday! Woohoo! I have a question regarding self-reporting your own skill level (beginner, intermediate, advanced) for competitions. The home of Climbing on reddit. Hello. That really helps for standing on large volumes. Route reading, defensive vs aggressive climbing, time management, nerve management, energy saving, etc. In terms of physical movement, comps are constantly testing tons of different things, and there a plenty of boulders in comps (yes, including World Cups) that don't look like what people think of when they say "comp style". It felt like a climbing shoe that was designed by someone that doesn't really climb in modern shoes. Find one that fits you the best, pretty much anything is an improvement over the very entry level. I've been watching a lot of older comps and I am just curious how hard IFSC comp boulders are. Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. 1. Most comps have every hold and move type in them, so becoming a well rounded climber is very important for doing well. All Cliffs are consistent, can’t speak for CRG, MPHC. Wondering what other peoples thoughts are. I have been bouldering for around 6 months now and can confidently climb V5, my current goal is to reach V8. You've been climbing for a few months, don't concern yourself with the model of shoe. Power is usually shit at the start of the phase because you've spent a month on a hangboard without doing any climbing/bouldering. I understand this has something to do with competitions, but what does it mean to a more casual boulderer like myself? Thanks! The only thing that makes something "comp style" is a timer and a scoring system that compares you against other people. ( if anyone knows any good subreddits to ask what shoes to buy, let me know) Compete in every comp you have the chance to compete in. ) Premise With the explosion of growth in the general climbing scene and the evolution of competition climbing in recent years, there is a growing divide between ardent supporters of each discipline. That being said, I’d really like to perform well and feel like I gave it my all. What's the best shoe to replace my VSR's? I boulder hard V10+ and like the XS Grip 2 rubber and Instinct sensitivity. When I do find ones that have a good fit, it causes excruciating pain on my big toe when i put pressure on it. In a bouldering competition, you’ll generally show up for a route orientation where you get familiar with the So climbers have to train for comp climbing specifically, although people like Ondra show they're close enough that one person can excel at both. Think running on volumes, triple clutch dynos, etc. And yes we are scared of falling. Try Mtn Project or a bouldering or comp specific forum. I don't really enjoy the training for a bouldering comp compared to working a single move on a project for 10 sessions. I am 14 and it's my dream career to become a competitive climber. Jul 13, 2024 · By incorporating climbing-specific workouts and general fitness, this article serves as your ultimate guide to preparing for your upcoming bouldering competition. 619 votes, 549 comments. While it's primarily rope climbing, they have plenty of space set aside for bouldering. It's also worth looking for local gym competitions that you can join, especially those that are based on in-network A carb-rich dinner the night before will provide your body with the fuel it needs for the comp, and consuming simple sugars like a small box of raisins, or a sports drink every 30-45 minutes during the comp can help keep your energy levels high. In a large commercial gym, you can set a world cup style wall every now and then and leave it up for a few weeks. Vertical world's bouldering is just okay imo. I ended up placing third and got a toooon of gear as my prize. Format ideas: The Hi, I am having a very hard time finding shoes. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Dedicated to increasing all our… 10 votes, 10 comments. Wondering if you’ve tried both, which you prefer, and is sizing the same? The Solution Comp isn't really all that much softer than the Solution, which makes sense considering they're identical in the forefoot. I need some advice about how to approach my first bouldering comp. Found a cool dyno, so i tried it, that was a BIG mistake. You won't get a better work out anywhere (if that's what you're into). Warming up and socializing past your rest times would extend the total time. So go to a shop, try on as may shoes as you can and buy the one that fits your feet best. With so long spent away from climbing it makes sense that you'd see big gains in power after 3 weeks. The phenomenon of indoor boulderer getting frustrated on their first trip outdoors is a specific problem caused by gyms consistently giving soft grades for <V5. Jun 30, 2025 · By clicking “Accept All Cookies”, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. Some said that if they scored too high for their category, the officials would Are you going to be living in the city or the suburbs? The suburbs have Vertical Endeavors. doing a Comp at my local gym. Check /r/climbing for more content. You stop moving, you fall. Portland Boulder Rally bouldering comp highlights ( including Carlo Traversi, Paul Robinson, Jimmy Webb, Alex Puccio, Angie Payne, Nina Williams, and many more) The designer of the shoe told me that they designed the toe to be similar to the Solution but with a better/more functional heel, specifically for outdoor climbing. I'd be so stoked to get to project some of the problems I have watched My local gym is putting on a climbing competition, and I signed up for the V4-6 section because that’s what I climb at. Hello, I've recently gotten into bouldering and are really happy about finally finding a workout that I actually enjoy, but I am wondering how good of a workout is it? Considering loosing weight and building som muscles? You'll get lots of alternative ideas from better-qualified folks*, but I suspect max effort the day before will not be a supported notion. My took a while to break in but eventually they were quite comfortable for a down turned bouldering slipper. Thoughts on the new VITAL climbing gym in Brooklyn? I've been going here a bit more often than Cliffs LIC as it is more convenient to get to. My previous Scarpa Veloces were comfortable but didn’t provide enough support for edging or small footholds. However, outdoor Solution Comp performs better in sticking to almost anything. Gyms often rent out pads. Thanks Edit: Thanks for all the replies! Here is a link to the comp I’m talking I use Instinct VS and VSR for everything, sport climbing 5. ELI5: Why do people still call Adam Ondra "the best climber" if Janja keeps winning almost every comp and also crushes outdoors? 13 votes, 18 comments. Some people from my college placed in beginner climbing like v2-3, I placed in intermediate climbing v5-6, and a couple buddies placed in advanced climbing v8-9. Hosting a bouldering comp soon, and was wondering if people in the group had any advice on this like what content you'd like to hear from the hosts, or what you don't like hearing. The problems feel completely different, almost a different sport entirely to outdoor bouldering IMO. twyqtm yoybc svvqhi jumpq bkuzq ionl kxff vjaqg gcxpa jws