Klipper first layer Your first layer is too squished in those spots. I find it easiest to sit in front of the printer and fine-tune with the LCD. The bed is rigid mounted with shims till it was flat. 0 Describe your issue: I just setup Klipper/Mainsail on my printer and I’ve been going to the process of creating the printer config and doing calibration. 5 MB) Hi guys I suddenly had problems with my Ender 3 V3 KE running a forked klipper as it seems that its impossible to get a good first layer. On all CoreXY printers: de-rack. only way i have gotten a good layer is to make the mesh and then live level the bed screws on a first layer test print. My Z-offset when i was running Jyers and Mriscoc was -2. it is simple. Feb 12, 2020 · klippy. the calculations for this are the same a measure and trim, but it brings your hot end into the mix which may be a factor. If you are using dual X rails, make sure they are properly aligned with each other. In Cura, the existence of the {material_bed_temperature_layer_0} and {material_print_temperature_layer_0} variables is enough to mitigate this. I have been having some issues getting a good first layer when the print takes up a large portion of the bed. When your first layer goes down, each line has more plastic than can fit in its line so some gets squished out to the sides. I then got this mess. Dec 30, 2023 · Basic Information: Printer Model: Voron 2. Typically speaking though, if your having first layer issues you should slow down to about 45 or so mms, and increase the thickness of your first line, if printing a . For now, I am going to try printing with a first layer Flow% of 125% and then adjusting the Klipper Flow% to 120%. I first printed the temp tower and that worked. Describe your issue: Soooo here are the pictures of my first layer… I thought it was just my inductive probe that was giving me inaccurate bed leveling/mesh so I installed a PCB klicky I got everything set up and installed. 4r2 MCU / Printerboard: octopus rpi4 Klippy log Describe your issue: Currently running beacon probe and first layer bed mesh isn’t compensating enough. for reference, I Aug 8, 2022 · Hello, I’m new to Klipper, so far I managed to get everything “working” but when printing a simple XYZ cube I’m getting consisting layer shifts. Mar 12, 2023 · It seems to be an interaction between having the general Flow% set and also having the first layer Flow% set. So I got as well as I could with the probe offset and moved on to extrusion multiplier and pressure advance. g. I'm using S3D as slicer, my first layer settings are 100% for height and width at 50% speed. Follow these steps to configure your setup for first layer scanning. I preheat the bed, do a Z_TILT_ADJUST and its within . ok so i have first layer issues, i have tried klipper and marlin and both do the exact same thing so im pretty sure its not firmware related. So, I upgraded my KE to klipper, installed mainsail and added KAMP. the corners of the model lift off. Start the print. ). 415 on a stock ender 3 v2 bed/hotend with bltouch bracket from creality. 86, im not sure how that translates to Klipper or if it helps at all That could be because you have compensated by being closer to the bed for the first layer. Feb 20, 2023 · Basic Information: Printer Model: Ender 3 - Microswiss DD + All Metal Hot End - Dual Z Stepper - PEI Spring Sheet Bed - CR Touch MCU / Printerboard: SKR Mini E3 2. When I was using start gcode in Cura, everything worked fine, but now when I use my custom gcode macro for start print, my nozzle is too heigh. no matter what i do the first layer is always too close (or perfect) on the right side of the bed and too far away on the left side of the bed. I started by printing the Bed/Extruder Leveling test from Super Slicer and Sep 2, 2024 · Basic Information: Printer Model: Ender 3 V3 KE MCU / Printerboard: Ender 3 v3 KE Host / SBC Raspberry Pi 3 Model B klippy. You should calibrate your extruder first. 3 first layer. here is my existing start gcode: M190 S100 But no matter what, my first layer looks like the pictures. I'm now trying to tune my printer. So I’m wondering if there is a way to get more ‘squish’ and/or spit out more filament only for 1 to 2 mm for each new start, only on Layer 1? Hope that makes sense? Thanks for the help! Nov 22, 2023 · I have been manually editing my start gcode macro every time I change filament to change the temperature. The red line represents Z offset drift over time as the frame comes up to temperature (this is on a V2. First layer acceleration is 500 on default for the first layer on literally all profiles. zip printer. This can be done via g-codes/macros, LCD, or via your printer's web interface (Fluidd / Mainsail). Then on the next pass it hits that same spot, picks up the additional plastic from the last line and squishes out even more plastic to the sides creating those little ridges. Is it normal to have to set flow rate to 105 to get decent first layer? My Z offset is 2. Since this is consistent with all my prints, even on freshly created S3D profile I assume it's something I'm missing in Klipper. 2 to 0. The reason being is that the Left side of the bed is always too close to the nozzle while the right side of the bed is BED={first_layer_bed_temperature} EXTRUDER={first_layer_temperature[initial_extruder] + extruder_temperature_offset[initial_extruder]} I don't know Cura as well, but FYI in SuperSlicer if you hover the mouse over any setting the tooltip will identify the "parameter name:" you do have to have something in the start gcode. Sep 10, 2023 · I see issues with some matte or silk PLAs with bed adhesion but only for the first mm or so, after that they lay perfectly smooth and flat – zero adhesion problems after that. It may also be possible klipper is ignoring Cura speed settings too? Did the line appear to print at the same rate as the first layer? Hello guys. You should anyway use dynamic acceleration control, you will notice that the max recommended acceleration calculated by the resonance measurements will still cause ringing, so your outer walls are ideally below that. Then started back over at first layer squish. here is mine for my ender 5+ with klipper: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; heat to Cura Hotend ;*** End Preheating *** ;M420 S1 Z2 ;(old marlin mesh enable) Enable ABL using Apr 3, 2024 · Using START_PRINT and END_PRINT Macros Rationale The START_PRINT and END_PRINT macros are optional but can be used to standardize the printer’s initialization process across different machines. ABL dose not help the issue at all. Set your first layer 📄 line width to 120% or greater. I want to slow it down for the first few layers. Z will drift upwards as the frame and gantry thermally expand with chamber heat. 7 hoping to make it compensate more. For V2, this is part of the gantry squaring instructions above. I know there is a way to automate this process but I have had trouble understanding how to use variable. 2mm layers) at your current flow and 2% increments above. Ideally print some 20mm X 40mm chips at your usual print speed with zero bottom layers, 5 infill layers and 5 top layers (so 2mm height at 0. This page is about fine-tuning your first layer squish. EDIT: ender 3 s1 Obico’s first layer AI is compatible with any 3D printer running OctoPrint or Klipper, but there may not be a nozzle camera mount readily available for your 3D printer. Also increase bed temp to TG -5C for first layer and give the filament a touch more heat also. A poorly squared gantry can be the root cause of a lot of first layer issues. Apr 2, 2024 · Be sure to check our “Knowledge Base” Category first. zip (1. go slow, like the default 5mm/s. Yesterday I switched from Marlin gcode to Klipper PRINT_START macro. Try increasing print temp for the first layer, I've had good luck with reducing curls and catches with a couple of problematic filaments that way. ![]({{ "/assets/img/klipper Superslicer has a setting in Print Settings -> Acceleration control (advanced) -> First Layer: which does exactly what you are looking for. 2 layer, drop a . This can cause your first layer squish to vary between prints, and can even cause your first layer to drift up as it prints. I would like to know how to set up variables in the start macro and change those variables in Cura slicer using my existing filament profiles. The idea behind them is simple: The slicers rather than measure and trim, try the method where you make a mark on the filament 150mm from the entrance of the extruder, extrude 100mm through the hot end at your normal printing temperature, and measure the mark again. It seems to be adding the two together for the first layer, the going completely whacko for the rest of the layers. What I don't get, is that not only does it appear to be gouging the first layer of the first You may have success with 70C bed first layer, as well as letting it preheat the bed for 3 to 5 minutes before starting the print (heating hot end etc). In addition to colllecting images while the first layer prints, you can use a layer scan macro to have Obico's first layer Ai scan the print after the first layer finishes to get a better analysis of the first layer as a whole. Most relevant items, e. I already tried to play with the stepper currents, accelerations, speeds, TMC debbuging showed no overheating issues, no preasure advanced or inputshaping is used and checked all mechanical parts, which seems to be fine, in fact, when START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature] BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature] Also note that these slicers will insert their own heating codes when certain conditions are not met. My problem is first layer. i can see the mesh working in mainsail by looking at the z height but it just doesn't seem to translate into an actual good first layer. 0 and it's probing and all is working i can even see the result in bed visualizer plugin but when i try to print a large square i get uneven re. While it is printing, live adjust z (also known as "baby stepping"). Commands and setting locations are detailed for Klipper and Marlin. I have run the axis twist compensation and tried adjusting the mesh tension from 0. Look at the graph below. These issues are my latest results. error messages, are covered there. Then I did flow rates and pressure advance. Please follow those first/instead. Check with our nozzle camera partners, Mintion and 3DO to see if there is a mount for your printer. I have confirmed it is loading the mesh and on the first layer i can Nov 28, 2023 · Basic Information: Printer Model: Ender 3 MCU / Printerboard: SKR e3 v3 I am assuming it would be in my ‘Start_Print’ macro, but is there a way to set the max speed for my initial layers. These two things confound each other. That's when I installed KAMP and I am now trying to do the first layer test to ensure flow rates and pressure advance is working. They provide more control over the initialization procedure, which can be particularly useful for printers that require more complex initialization steps. zip I added an original bltouch V3. 01 so the Z Screws are synced well. kthonh izc tyge ykavtc ztd ueqhor wceoddrk nxsnk daewjh ikam eytdj yzzrd cwzpore hixl fyp